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In-depth hands-on review of the Charlie Paris Concordia GMT which to us is French. GMT. Diver. in the world of micro and independent horology. Charlie Paris Concordia GMT French. GMT. Diver. It’s a great time to be a watch collector and a Frenchman. A watch collector because we are living an incredible period in which GMTs are plentiful and at our financial reach. A Frenchman because I’m proud of how inventive and dedicated French brands have been in the past decade. (These brands are putting the country back onto the world’s horological map.) One such brand is Charlie Paris which I’ve written about before in your now favorite online watch magazine. First, I wrote a profile story about the founders and then reviewed the Alliance model. Each new model of the brand gets better—unlike movie sequels—and each time Charlie pushes the envelope a little further. A first big step for them was to make automatic watches, then tool watches, then innovative designs and now complex utilitarian timepieces we can take on any adventure. With a twist and charm. The latest release from Charlie Paris is the Concordia GMT, a diver/traveler’s watch that looks more Charlie now than the diver-only model did last year. (This will all make sense later.) As we will see—addressing now the many pairs of eyeballs reading this review—the brand didn’t content itself of just adding a GMT complication to the diver and swapping the count-up bezel for a GMT one. Non, monsieur. They symbiotically integrated the GMT with the diver, updated the design, and added different dial colors and even textures to offer something a little extra that other brands don’t. All of this can be pre-ordered starting September 13, 2023, for the comparatively reasonable sum of 1195€ ($1,280 USD) on the strap and 1245€ ($1,333 USD) on the stainless steel bracelet. Specifications As mentioned in previous articles, Charlie works with actual explorers and athletes to develop their models. The Concordia was designed in collaboration with and for a French adventurer who crossed some massive piece of land covered with ice. Unlike us, he actually needs proper tool watches to keep track of time to know when it would be ideal to set up camp for the night. Such watches must keep precise time in harsh conditions. (Not your city's snowstorm, but something much more serious.) That’s how the Concordia collection came to be and which the brand endowed with time-only models and divers. And now GMTs. The Concordia GMT, therefore, is a 300m diver and traveler’s watch as it is powered by the Soprod C125 caliber. This movement beats at 28,800 BPH (4Hz) and has 40 hours of power reserve. Despite its impressive water resistance, this model comes with dimensions that are right in the middle for wrists of various sizes: 40mm in diameter, 47.5mm lug-to-lug, 12.5mm thick, and 20mm lug width. These dimensions are arguably good for many and fits my 6.25”/16cm wrist quite well. Actually, let’s not argue about this because I know we are on the same page. The Concordia does command a gentle wrist presence which is offset by the slender 3-link bracelet and its moderately-sized clasp. Nothing fancy here. And you know what? Not every single watch in 2023 must come with tool-less micro-adjust mechanisms. There, I said it. (YouTubers, please calm down.) To finish talking about the case, you should know that the back is see-through and made of sapphire so that we can lose sense of time looking at the Soprod C125. Since the Concordia GMT has 300 meters of water resistance, you guessed it has a screw-down crown and case-back. The crown, furthermore, is protected by small crown guards to add a bit of solidity to the entire package. Maybe what follows is absolutely subjective but I would advance that endowing the case with an alternation of brushed and polished surfaces aids in making any watch look versatile. Here we find brushed finishes on the lugs and polished ones on the sides and chamfers. The bracelet, for its part, is entirely brushed and comes with solid links and end-links and push-pins. What also makes a watch versatile is the dial design which we’re going to analyze below. Design While I could be the first one to claim that 99% of designs we see everyday are not 100% original, I must say that the Concordia GMT looks more original than the non-GMT Concordia did. A big part of this can be explained by the dial color and texture as well as how the GMT complication was integrated within the design. The model presented here showcases a forest green color complete with a dégradé effect and a texture that mimics that of a tree trunk. (The brand wanted to evoke the possibility of exploring the Amazon forest wearing a diver in addition to discovering the underwater world.) To add contrast, the applied hour markers are covered with lume that looks creamy during the day and glow green at night, and the GMT scale printed on the rehaut has two colors: green for the AM hours and cream/yellow for the PM hours. These plays on colors make it possible to simultaneously read the time locally and elsewhere on our vast planet. Hopefully the latter being home time since local time is vacation time. Compared to the hour markers, the handset is rather discreet which aids in giving the Concordia GMT an elegant appearance. The hour and minute hands are of the pencil-style design and the seconds hand looks like a needle on steroids given the rectangular, lumed element. All hands are lumed and glow the same green color as the hour markers. (Except for the small GMT hand which glows blue.) At the six we find a small date aperture where the numerals are printed in black against a white background for ultimate legibility. (As a side note: aren’t you tired of people like me lamenting about non color matched date wheels?) For fun and to showcase their great attention to detail, Charlie Paris framed the date aperture in a way that it matches the dial color. The case has a simple profile with slab-sided flanks and two small crown guards surrounding the redesigned crown. The latter used to have a conical shape on the Concordia diver and now it has the appearance of an onion, something we typically see on pilot watches. This new shape makes it easier to grab and operate the crown—something that should be a given on any proper tool watch. Furthermore, the brand added a red ring at the base of the crown so that one can easily see whether or not it is screwed in to guarantee water resistance. The bezel insert has also been redesigned and now comes with an applied inverted triangle complete with a lume pip. As you can now see, there is plenty of lume on the Concordia GMT and all in the right places. (I do find lumed crowns fun but boy how so unnecessary.) The Heart of the Matter At the heart of the matter is the fact that Charlie Paris is continuously evolving and upping the quality and complexity of its collections. While I found the Alliance to be particularly original and very “Charlie”—in the sense that the brand managed to transfer the design ethos of its first collections to more complex horological creations—the Concordia diver was not. But, the GMT version is. And what I believe makes it “Charlie Paris” is the play on colors and how the diving and GMT functions are well integrated with one another. While brands usually replace a dive time bezel by a GMT one, my countrymen decided to retain the precise utilitarian functionality of a diver and add another layer of utility by placing a GMT scale on the rehaut. This is important because I find GMTs built from a diver platform generally silly and the sign of lazy designers. Yes, go to hell Rolex GMT Master II. You know I’m talking about you! You’re just a Submariner with a GMT hand and scale. What’s your actual life purpose, I wonder every day. And, I would add, there are just too few GMT divers out there for less than $2,000. Or, ones that actually have a coherent design and are useful. That is what Charlie Paris managed to do and I love it. They preserved the look of the original Concordia collection and diver and made it better. If you can spend $1,000 on a diver, why not stretch your budget a little and buy a GMT diver? This way you can go on a week-long dive cruise in the Caribbeans and keep track of the time where your boss lives. Or your mother. This watch comes with loads of functionality in a relatively compact package and a reasonable price tag. As a reminder, pre-orders started and the Concordia GMT can be had for 1195€ ($1,280 USD) on the strap and 1245€ ($1,333 USD) on the bracelet. Full retail is as follows: 1375€ ($1,475 USD) on nylon or leather and 1425€ ($1,528 USD) on metal. A little over a year ago we didn’t have many options for GMTs coming from micro and independent brands. Then the arrival of the Seiko NH34 and Miyota 9075 calibers gave hundreds of brands a renewed interest in making GMTs—and sometimes the terrible idea for get-rich-quick schemes—to the point where we all felt a little bit overwhelmed. Before all of this happened, Charlie Paris had already begun designing the Concordia GMT and made the right decision to not change their plans to fit a Seiko or Miyota movement. Instead, they opted for a solid Swiss-made caliber that pairs perfectly with their robust Concordia platform. The result is a well thought out GMT diver that costs three times less than a Tudor Black Bay GMT and would, I guarantee, give you an equal amount of horological pleasure. As a final note, you should know that the Concordia GMT exists in four versions: blue with a blue/white GMT scale, green with a green/cream GMT scale, chocolate brown with a brown/cream GMT scale, and a black with a gray/white GMT scale. You can learn more about the Concordia and Charlie Paris here. Thanks for reading. FEATURED REVIEWS Monbrey MB1 L01 The Updated Grammar of Design Shinola Mechanic 39 The Return of American Watch Design at its Finest Delma Cayman Bronze A Supercharged Skin Diver

In-depth hands-on review of the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic 35mm which to us is The Watch for Romantic Globe Explorers in the world of micro and independent horology. Nivada Grenchen Antarctic 35mm The Watch for Romantic Globe Explorers Whenever I hear someone say “Things were better back in the day,” I’d agree if that person meant from an horological standpoint. And “back then” here would refer to the 1950s when people, pushed by an extra wind of energy and revival following the end of the second World War, decided to go explore the most remote places on earth. It was the time of debonair explorers and adventurers, a time when surpassing our limits was the norm and something that could be done elegantly. Both in terms of how people used to dress as well as the type of watches they would strap to their wrist. While we all know too well about the pre-Explorer Rolex and the Smith that went to Mount Everest, fewer people know about the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic 35mm. And today we’re going to focus on the latter. The Antarctic was the brand’s most robust collection of watches and it came in various shapes and sizes over a period spanning the late 1950s through the early 1970s. The model we’re going to take a look at today is an amalgam of all the better, earlier versions of the Antarctic. (At least, that’s my personal opinion.) The one where we find the art déco Arabic numerals at the cardinal points, the modern typeface for the brand and model names, as well as the white dial that most Antarctic’s were equipped with. Size-wise, it’s also the most faithful to the early examples worn by certain navy explorers we’re going to talk about later. Specifications Appropriately-sized watches are back in style and I’m so glad they are. While I spent the first few years of my watch career only swearing by watches with diameters oscillating between 38 and 40mm, I now find myself a fervent supporter—a champion I should say—of watches that have diameters between 32 and 36mm. (Something you’ve probably realized when I reviewed the Praesidus A-11 Type 44 .) On my 6.50”/16.5cm wrist, these are the dimensions which I believe fit me the best. And this Antarctic 35mm hits that new sweet-spot of mine with a diameter of 35mm, a lug-to-lug of 41.9mm, a total thickness of 10.1mm, and a lug width of 18mm. Needless to say, it wears like a dream—or as if it was made for me. And for some reason I thought, for a very long time, that smaller watches couldn’t be robust. Don’t ask me why I was under this impression because I wouldn’t be able to explain it—rationally that is. And the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic 35mm proved me wrong. Within this compact case, we find a manual-wind Landeron 21 caliber beating at 28,800 BPH (4Hz) and coming with 36 hours of power reserve. In other words, the Antarctic won’t stop ticking if you forget to wind it exactly 24 hours after the last full wind. Equipped with a small push/pull crown and a screw-down case-back, this model is endowed with a reasonable 50 meters of water resistance. Furthermore, the top crystal is a piece of double-domed sapphire that looks deliciously vintage in addition to being scratch-resistant. (Being domed means it creates gentle distortions at the edges of the dial when looking at the watch from certain angles.) The lume on this version—there are a total of eight variants with different dial and lume colors—is SuperLuminova 7403C, a blend I was not familiar with until this model and which works well. In terms of finishing, the case comes with horizontally brushed flanks and high-polished surfaces everywhere else. The Antarctic 35mm is a small strap monster and looks equally good on the provided black leather strap or a Bonklip. Design The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic has a look of its own, just like the Rolex Explorer 1 does. While the latter was never discontinued, the former was, although the brand decided to bring back this—the original—version. Over its historical lifespan, the Antarctic came in different dial configurations. In some examples, there was a date aperture at the 3 o’clock, in others Arabic numerals only at the 12 and 6 positions. There were also black dial versions and limited editions for certain branches of the military and for the American market under the brand name Croton. Going back to what we have here, we find ourselves with a perfectly distilled re-interpretation of what made the first Antarctic so darn attractive. First, fully polished Dauphine hands that still remain to this day my favorite type of hand design. Multifaceted and fully polished applied hour markers where the ones at the cardinal points are highlighted with art déco looking Arabic numerals. Lume can be seen on the hour and minute hands (the blued seconds hand doesn’t have any) and outside the hour markers in croissant-shaped sections that contrast nicely with the matte, white dial. While other variants have white lume, I like how the creamy tones of this particular blend of SuperLuminova look here. In addition to the domed sapphire crystal, they endow the Antarctic 35mm with an extra layer of vintage charm. In addition to the dial, the case of this Nivada Grenchen also comes with a unique profile which I find particularly well executed here. The mid section of the case is thin and elongated, as in it perfectly blends in with the lugs. The latter showcase a twisted design where the inner part, towards the bracelet, has a large, flat, and polished upper section. This makes the lugs look particularly thin and elegant, and they visually—as well as dramatically—aid in making the watch sit very comfortably on the wrist. Seen from the side, the case of the Antarctic 35mm is small and delicate in appearance—although not in construction—and I particularly appreciate how tall the crystal is. The Heart of the Matter At the heart of the matter is the fact that Nivada Grenchen, at last, recreated the original Antarctic. Or, as I mentioned in the introduction, the perfect amalgam of what were the best visual attributes of the first generations. In the past two to three years, the brand released more recent designs of the Antarctic, for example the Super Antarctic which is larger in proportions and comes with different dial layouts. When I saw the first Super Antarctic 3.6.9. , I immediately formulated the secret wish that Nivada would re-release the Antarctic that we see here and that was made famous by the members of the U.S. Navy Deep Freeze I expedition to the South Pole in 1955-56. (These were the navy explorers I made a reference to at the beginning of this article.) What’s particularly interesting here, therefore, is how elegant this tool watch is. Because back in the day, timekeeping devices for debonair explorers were not only robust but also elegant. They were so visually versatile that they could just as easily be worn exploring the icy and snowy landscapes of the South Pole as well as attending a formal dinner to present the results of such expeditions. Yes, the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic 35mm makes me think of James Bond or Ian Fleming—for a lack of other iconic historical references—and that’s what sets this model apart from the competition. In other words, from the Rolex Explorer 1, the Tudor Ranger, and perhaps the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra: it’s robust, elegant, and affordable. True, the latest point is debatable. But when you consider that a modern Explorer 1 will set you back $8,000 USD and that the Ranger retails for $3,200 USD on a strap, I would argue that the $850 USD price tag of the Antarctic 35mm is reasonable given its heritage and how nicely it is made. You can of course only take my word on the latter point—and hopefully the pictures in this article will do this watch justice—but the construction and finishing on this model is top-notch and far superior to timekeeping devices that I’ve come across and which retail for the same price—or more. Nivada Grenchen is often talked about as being one of the best and most successful examples of a brand revival and I would argue that this particular model explains why. First of all, Nivada has a vast catalog of iconic timepieces that have been slowly brought back to life one after the other. From the Chronomaster, Depthmaster, and Datomaster to the Antarctic. The Chronomaster is the model the brand is the most known for and so it made sense for Nivada to choose this one as the first to revive. Secondly, I feel it was a ballsy decision to bring back this model as it is perhaps the most difficult one to recreate. I say this because of its smaller case diameter of 35mm and the art déco styling of the hour markers. Conclusion If, like me, you’ve come to your senses and appreciate smaller, vintage-inspired, classic exploration watches, then you surely found something here that will entice you to perhaps pull the trigger on a Nivada Grenchen 35mm. The bad news is that many watch enthusiasts have come to their senses already, meaning that all eight versions of the Antarctic 35mm quickly sold out. The good news is that the brand will be restocking in May of 2024. This gives you plenty of time to further explore the collection on the brand’s website . Thanks for reading. FEATURED REVIEWS Monbrey MB1 L01 The Updated Grammar of Design Shinola Mechanic 39 The Return of American Watch Design at its Finest Delma Cayman Bronze A Supercharged Skin Diver

In-depth hands-on review of the Formex Essence 39 which to us is Unbeatable Quality & Inventiveness in the world of micro and independent horology. Formex Essence 39 Unbeatable Quality & Inventiveness Some brands play in an entirely different sandbox than others. It’s either because of their heritage, their unbeatable price/specifications ratio, or their capacity to innovate. Or sometimes all three blended together. Formex is such a brand. It offers innovative technology and unique designs for comparatively low prices. If any brand would deserve to be described as “destroying the industry,” well Formex would be that brand. (Although I hate stringing these words together.) The Essence 39, which we are taking a look at here, formulates what’s best about the brand: a design infused with unique Formex DNA, incredible specifications for the price, and a cascade of innovations all nicely wrapped in a case that comes with outstanding dimensions. Specifications There are many specifications we need to go over when speaking about the Essence 39. First, its dimensions: 39mm in diameter, 45mm lug-to-lug, and a mere 10mm in thickness. Let’s not forget the lug width that comes at practical 20mm. These dimensions are truly ideal for people who had the unfortunate fate of being born with smaller wrists like myself. But the watch does command a certain visual presence that makes it suitable for larger-wristed humans. For these dimensions you get 100 meters of water resistance and a double-sapphire crystal sandwich construction. Yes, the crystal on top of the dial is made of scratch-resistance sapphire and so is the one on the case-back. Both come with anti-reflective coating which means that looking at the gorgeous movement within has never been easier. The caliber that beats inside is the COSC-certified Sellita SW200-1 which beats at 28,000 BPH and comes with 41 hours of power reserve. Each movement is regulated and tested by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) and then tested again by Formex after being cased. I’ve had COSC-movements before and this one runs like a beast. One key feature that has been highlighted in every single YouTube video or written review about the Essence is its case suspension system. Some have criticized it as being gimmicky, others adore it. I’m part of the latter group. In itself, the case suspension adds unique visual elements to the overall design of the watch in that the four screws that hold it together are an integral part of the design. And the case suspension system does add comfort as the central part of the watch lifts up when twisting the wrist. It’s useful and it looks cool. Although the hour markers are thin, they are highly legible in darker situations as they have been filled with hips of BGW9. The hands too. I think it’s quite spectacular to have given so much brightness to the Essence 39 given the fact that in certain aspects—as we will see later—the Essence is more dressy than sporty. Lastly, the case and bracelet are made of 316L stainless steel that shows, for the most part, a satin finish and highly polished surfaces on the bezel and case sides, as well as polished bevels on the bracelet. Design I feel it’s becoming more and more rare to come across original designs. (So much so that even Swiss giants regularly tap into their archives to fatten their current catalogs.) I often see a handset that was used before, or a case shape that is reminiscent of a model made 30 years prior. And maybe that when you look at the Essence, you will feel that you’ve seen part of its design language used elsewhere. However, and personally, I believe that all of what you see in the Essence is new. Starting with the case suspension system which I touched upon earlier which gives the whole package a sporty flair. Personally, the screws make the Essence look like some sort of futuristic machinery. The satin brushing that alternates with highly polished surfaces create dynamic light plays that are reinforced by the multi-faceted hour markers and hands. Light reflects from multiple areas, however they never obstruct the process of reading the time. Furthermore, the dial has horizontal CNC-machined lines that give the watch a look of fine wood. Combined with a vertical brushing, the dial itself is a light show. Looking at it straight down, a deep blue color appears. Looking at it from a sharp angle, it becomes almost black. The case displays flat geometrical surfaces that remind me of vintage King Seikos. These surfaces make the Essence 39 look art-deco in some ways and like avant-garde pieces of aeronautical parts in other ways. I particularly love the slab case sides and flat lugs, and how the watch sits perfectly on the wrist. I also appreciate the fact that Formex made the bracelet flow superbly with the case design, where the beveled edges of the outer links echo the case sides and lug tops. Lastly, about the bracelet, the links are thin (in height) which makes the bracelet comfortable. (Too often brands make thick bracelets that look and feel more like pieces of jewelry rather than accessories that compliment a timepiece.) The signed crown with the incised logo is quite small but easy to grip and operate. Its knurling is, in a way, a repeat of the bracelet assembly in which the links, which are of equal dimensions, look almost like a tire thread. All of these elements combined together—the knurling on the crown, the bracelet links, the horizontal lines on the dial, and the screws of the suspension system—create a blend of sophisticated industrialism that is unique to Formex and the Essence collection. The Hearth of the Matter Have you heard of the saying that Jaeger LeCoultre is the watchmaker’s watchmaker? What does this mean? It means that JLC creates movements that are so sophisticated that Rolex watchmakers and engineers are left in awe looking at them. It also means that they craft watches that have the most superior finish of the industry, leaving Omega’s artisans gasping for air by looking at their timepieces. I would argue that in the world of independent brands, Formex represents the best that can be achieved in non-luxurious timepieces. What do I mean? The Essence 39 (and therefore, its larger sibling too) packs a lot of innovative features that I personally relish every time I strap the watch on. It’s not that the watch has many design tricks up its sleeve—for example hand-finished hands that reveal themselves in certain lighting conditions, or a perlage finish hidden on the underside of the clasp—it’s that the watch was equipped with certain features that make sense and come in handy every day. All of what the watch comes with is useful, nothing is superfluous. So let’s start with the bracelet, one of my favorite parts of the Essence. As we already know, it’s superbly manufactured and finished. It comes with quick-release spring bars. But I didn’t share all of what the bracelet has to offer earlier for one reason: I wanted to show you how practical it is. For example, both ends of the deployment clasp do not open at the same time. After pushing the two buttons to open it, the right side opens first and then you must gently pull the bracelet away from the left side of the clasp to fully open it. This means the watch won’t accidentally fall on the floor if you poorly execute this maneuver. It’s a safety feature as it were. Moreover, the bracelet comes with a hidden micro-extension system that adds roughly 5mm of length to the bracelet for those days when our wrists swell. It’s honestly the ideal amount of wiggle room you need in order to keep the watch comfortable throughout the day. And this operation can be done while wearing the watch on the wrist as all you need to do is open the right side of the clasp, again knowing it won’t just fully open and slide off your wrist. I do know Rolex offers a similar system on certain models, however it is built-in a folder-over clasp, not a double deployment one. Moving away from the bracelet we can focus our attention on the crown. Although I do wish it would be of the screw-down variety (I’m just paranoid this way,) the way it operates is different from the way most crowns I had come across until now function. Normally, the crown travels equal distance between each position, for example to wind the movement (position 0,) set the date (position 1,) and time (position 3.) In the case of the Essence 39, the crown travels twice as long from position two to position three compared to position one to position two. Although I cannot prove why, I assume this helps with water resistance but regardless, it operates beautifully and feels secure. Conclusion I could conclude the review with the following four words: I adore the Essence. Although saying that would make me come across as biased—which I totally am, by the way—I genuinely think the Essence offers incredible value for the money. For a retail price of $1,450, you get a COSC-equipped sports watch with an elegant design, modest proportions, and a plethora of engineering advances rarely seen together—if at all—in a timepiece for under $2,000. Although it is not perfect—and this might be egocentric of me to say this—the Essence is the closest any watch has gotten to the ideal timepiece I would have designed for myself. (You know, if I had my own brand.) Lastly I would say that it can easily constitute a one-watch collection. Hot take anyone? Thanks for reading. FEATURED REVIEWS Monbrey MB1 L01 The Updated Grammar of Design Shinola Mechanic 39 The Return of American Watch Design at its Finest Delma Cayman Bronze A Supercharged Skin Diver

In-depth hands-on review of the Gavox Squadron which to us is Much More than the Poor Man’s Sinn 103 in the world of micro and independent horology. Gavox Squadron Much More than the Poor Man’s Sinn 103 When I talked to Gavox’s founder Michael Happé about the Squadron , he related the fact that many people call it the “poor man’s Sinn 103.” Those who say that are both professionals (active duty members of the military who have field-tested and use the Squadron) as well as watch enthusiasts who have a severe inclination for military watches. The Sinn 103 is a precise and highly engineered multifunctional mechanical chronograph the base price of which starts at $2,300 USD. The Squadron retails for $480 USD. The latter is almost five times cheaper than the former and although it ticks with a different kind of technology, its soul is the same as that of its distant German cousin. Actually, the Gavox does everything the Sinn 103 does and some more. It is the perfect in-between for ultra functional tool watches and the inherent reliability of quartz calibers. We’ve looked at Gavox before in the AviDiver II GMT which is a solid, legible, and also multi-functional tool watch (it’s a diver and a GMT) equipped with a unique multipurpose timing element which triples the inherent functionality of the watch. (You can already see a trend going on with Michael’s horological creations.) The AviDiver II GMT is therefore a pilot watch, a diver, and a GMT all grouped within a solid construction and that is also what we’re going to see the Squadron to be—many tool watches lumped into one—a pilot, a diver, and a chronograph and some. Retailing for $480 USD you will get a whole lot of value with this one and if it is good enough for the pros it certainly is good enough for you and me. Gavox is the type of brand which principally designs watches for the military which field-tests all of them for the brand. Specifications You won’t be surprised then if I tell you what ticks inside the Gavox Squadron: a Ronda 5130.D mecaquartz chronograph caliber with an alarm function to boot and a stated monthly accuracy of -10/+20 seconds per day. The 5130.D movement is the type of battery-powered instrument which permits the user to time events up to 12 hours by 30-minute increments and which is naturally resistant to shocks and magnetism. The alarm function doubles as a reference time indicator though I have to tell you I couldn’t figure out exactly how to use it despite the fact that Gavox puts a complete operating manual in the box. (I believe this level of functionality is best suited for spies.) So the Squadron is functionally a highly capable watch, and like a good engine should be surrounded with a finely made body of metal, so does the Squadron which spec list is, figuratively speaking, as long as this review. To allow the user to have a clear view of all information displayed on the dial, there is a flat piece of sapphire crowning the case complete with a few layers of inner anti-reflective coating. In terms of water resistance there are 100 meters of it as the case-back and crown screw-down, so that you can rest easy whether you’re flying above ground or taking a deep recreational dive during your upcoming mission vacation. (The chronograph pushers do not screw down.) Should you not feel comfortable timing something underwater using the chronograph, then you can use the 120-click unidirectional bezel which is fully graduated. Its action is definitely utilitarian and firm, but consistent which is ideologically on part with the raison d’être of the Squadron. (A tough-as-nails Swiss knife of a toolwatch, a point which I will bring back multiple times again in this review.) Given its inherent functionality and robust appearance, you may be right in thinking that the Gavox Squadron commands a certain wrist presence. Because it does. This baby clocks in with a diameter of 41mm, a lug-to-lug of 51.1mm, a total thickness of 12mm, and a lug width of 20mm. Though the diameter is good, I would say that the L2L is better suited for watch enthusiasts who either have more self-confidence than I do or who were lucky to be born with larger wrists than mine. (As a reminder, my watch-wearing bone-and-skin attachment measures 6.50”/16.5cm.) And keep in mind that 51.1mm is the total length from one lug to the other whilst the watch, on the provided bracelet with its male end links, clocks in at 56.2mm. Though the Squadron’s saving grace is the fact that the lugs turn down towards the wrist offsetting its total dimensions. Design It is common with tool watches that form follows function. No, it’s (should be) a given. And this couldn’t be more true with the Gavox Squadron. At first glance, this watch belongs to a small group of ultra purpose-driven timekeeping devices which are more rare than I thought when I first entered the hobby. Indeed the Squadron does make me think of the Sinn 103 but also of the Fortis Cosmograph. In total three chronograph tool watches which were designed and engineered to be the ultimate tool watches. (They are good enough for pilots and astronauts after all.) But as we already know, the Gavox is much more affordable than the Sinn and this statement is also true comparing it to the Fortis. So what we have here is multiple complications neatly arranged in one metal package, and although the disposition of the sub-registers is dictated by the movement architecture, I like how Gavox went about organizing everything. First we have the normal timekeeping function which is handled by two large syringe-style hour and minute hands which are lumed. The running seconds are indicated in the sub-register located at the three, where we find a small seconds hand with a lollipop counter-balance. The main chronograph hand has the shape of a needle with a lumed, arrow-shaped element. At the six we find the sub-register which doubles as the alarm and reference time functionality, where two hands indicate a second time using a military-style 12-hour scale. (The same one is used to indicate the local time.) Lastly, at the nine, we find the 30-minute totalizer as well as the 12-hour totalizer. The former sits at the periphery of the dial and is recognizable for having the 5-minute increments highlighted. The latter is nestled within the center portion of the register and stands out for having an orange hand. Although there are many things to look at and read, I find the layout of the dial to have been well thought out. After a few self-imposed training sessions, I was able to read the elapsed hours quite easily despite being the smallest set of information to read. To make all of that information quite legible, Gavox opted for a monochromatic color scheme so that the local time, chronograph functionality, as well as the alarm and reference time indicators are easy to read as they contrast nicely set against a matte black dial. And the Squadron is endowed with extra complications such as the date located at the 4:30 (black printed numerals against a white date disc) and a 60-minute timer on the bezel. The latter was also designed with a decisive function-first approach as the 5-minute increments were also highlighted with Arabic numerals. All of the above is framed within a case that comes with a simple and utilitarian design which is more than appropriate for this type of watch and given the huge functionality the Squadron comes with. The Heart of the Matter Although it might be diminutive to compare the Gavox Squadron to a Sinn 103, either for the Squadron because it costs less than the Sinn or for the Sinn because it costs more than the Gavox, from a functionality standpoint this comparison (I hope) makes sense. The Gavox actually is more functional and much more affordable for being powered by a mecaquartz chronograph caliber, and with the Ronda 5130.D there is the addition of the alarm and reference time capabilities. (Again, I haven’t mastered the latter.) As far as I know and as the horological wisdom goes, battery-powered calibers, even the cheapest ones, are de facto more resistant to shocks and magnetic fields than mechanical movements of many calibers (ah ah, nice pun right?) are. This is something to take into consideration when comparing a Gavox Squadron and a Sinn 103. Conclusion At the end of the day, we must choose what makes the most sense to us. Do you need a full-fledged chronograph? Do you want one? How much are you willing to spend on it? For $480 USD the Gavox Squadron will give you more functionality than you will probably ever need and some more whilst having the piece of mind that is inherent to quartz movements—accuracy and ease of use. Two points to take into serious consideration. And beyond the caliber itself, remember that you get 100 meters of water resistance, a sapphire crystal, and lume which I haven’t yet mentioned which is generously applied where it matters the most. So the Gavox Squadron is the type of watch which makes me wonder how much we should actually pay for a good tool watch? Thanks for reading. FEATURED REVIEWS Monbrey MB1 L01 The Updated Grammar of Design Shinola Mechanic 39 The Return of American Watch Design at its Finest Delma Cayman Bronze A Supercharged Skin Diver

In-depth hands-on review of the Treiber T54SL Gullwing which to us is The First Car-Inspired Watch I’d Buy in the world of micro and independent horology. Treiber T54SL Gullwing The First Car-Inspired Watch I’d Buy Independent brands know how to keep me on my toes. I love this segment of the horological market because it is where I find endless creativity and boldness. I’ve often wondered how one comes up with an idea for a new model? Is there a limit to what we can create? There doesn’t seem to be one actually and that’s a good thing for us—watch enthusiasts. Because this means that we are bound to find something we like and which resonates with us. Whether we are into coffee, vintage cars, architecture, music or food. And today’s protagonist perfectly illustrates how creative certain people are. And, as equally important, the capacity they have to communicate their passion in horological form. You may have heard of Treiber Timepieces before, like I did, but I had yet to get one in front of the camera and on my wrist. Their first model, the Bel Air , looked outstanding and perhaps a little too “out there” for me. But as soon as I saw the first shots of their newest creation, the T54SL Gullwing, I was immediately charmed. Although, as you know, I don’t like to say it: I’ve never seen something quite like it before! And the Gullwing is not just a handsome watch, it’s also a well-made timekeeping device that burgeons with Easter Eggs. But before we start, you should know that this model is currently on Indiegogo with an estimated delivery for February 2025. Specifications I generally am excited talking about the specs of a watch although I’m usually much more interested telling you about its design. And I cannot wait to get to the latter part because there is a lot to cover here. But first, as usual, let’s run through all important specifications as they will partially explain the Gullwing’s price tag: $975 USD on Indiegogo and $1,499 USD after that. I know, specs are not everything and design is priceless. However, from a mechanical standpoint, you do get a lot for your hard earned cash, starting with intriguing dimensions: 39mm in diameter, 45.3mm lug-to-lug, 11.9mm thick, and a 22mm lug width. I say “intriguing” because they are rather compact although, visually, the T54SL commands a noble wrist presence. The case and bracelet are made of 316L stainless steel which showcase a fine alternation of brushed and polished surfaces. (More on that later.) Both the see-through case-back and crown screw down which endows the Gullwing with 100 meters of water resistance—what I generally consider to be a great average for an everyday wear. The top and bottom crystals are made of sapphire so that both the lumed dial (it is tinted SuperLuminova SL-GL-C1) and Top Grade Sellita SW200-1 caliber (28,800 BPH/38 hours of power reserve) can easily and safely be admired. I think it’s pretty neat that Treiber chose a higher grade movement for this exceptional piece, in a way matching the robust and powerful engine found on the car which inspired this model: the Mercedes 300SL. In terms of the bracelet, we find what is commonly referred to as a “H-Link'' construction, where the H-shaped links are fully brushed and the center portion fully polished. I generally do not care for polished links but here they just work for me. Interestingly enough, the links are held together with spring bars which means that from the outside, the links are seamlessly connected to one another. I’ve never seen anything like this before (I don’t know everything) and I think it’s quite genius. And although it might not sound super practical at first, I didn’t have any trouble removing a few links to adjust the T54SL to my wrist. Design Alright, now we can talk about the design! As briefly mentioned above, the Treiber Gullwing is inspired by the iconic Mercedes 300SL which was nicknamed “The Gullwing.” Most of what you see on this watch strongly and beautifully evokes key design characteristics of the car it was inspired by. First and foremost, the dial layout which mimics the gauges found on the dashboard, with a clear and legible layout, Arabic numerals for the hours printed in small, as well as thin and elegant hands. The icing on the cake here is the cap above the pinion which brings back memories of old cars my dad used to drive where I would be marveled thinking that the hands would magically float above the dial. Note how the minute track does not come with hash marks for each minute, but rather two large ones between each hour to pay homage to the design of the speedometer found on the 300SL. If you look closely, you will notice a few more Easter Eggs on the dial. First, the fact that the larger section (where we find the hour markers) is slightly below the center portion and adorned with a subtle radial finish. A metal ring separates the two sections of the dial and I absolutely love how the hour hand perfectly aligns with the hour markers and the metallic border. (Further brownie points for the perfectly proportioned minute and seconds hands.) Additionally, we find a discreet cut-out date aperture at the six o’clock with a white disc and black printed numerals for easy reading. (I sincerely do not think that color-matching the date disc would have been a good idea here.) The bezel, crown, and case are just as outstanding as the dial—at least to me. At 11.9mm, the Gullwing is thin and visually appears even thinner thanks to the design of the case flanks which evoke the “eyebrow” wheel arches found on the Mercedes. The flanks are fully polished and flow from one end to the other in a continuous manner which I found particularly well-executed. We also found polished finishes on the fixed bezel which has the shape of a mountain—meaning that it flows up from the crystal and down towards the case. The elegant design of the bezel is accentuated by the fact that the edges of the crystal turn down ever so slightly. (See photo below.) Lastly, I love the crown design which pays tribute to the radio knobs found on the 300SL. Being fully polished and having geometrical edges, the crown is not the easiest to operate but who gives a shit? It’s gorgeous and complemented by the brand’s superb logo which makes me think of vintage cars—delightful. The Heart of the Matter At the heart of the matter is the fact that Treiber created a homerun. True, you must like the design, and I guess, be into vintage cars to fully enjoy it, but even if you were not, you can easily appreciate its originality and the attention to detail the brand put into designing it. The T54SL Gullwing is not the first car-inspired watch I’ve come across thus far, but it definitely is my favorite one. And it is so because it actually does not look like a fully car-inspired watch in the sense that it could only be appreciated by someone who is crazy about automobiles, but it is (to me) thoughtfully designed and put together. A vintage vibe clearly emanates from the Gullwing but one which I would describe in a sense as being approachable. And I for one am not scared of the $1,499 USD full retail price tag which I would objectively consider to be reasonable. Why? Because of the tremendous amount of work that went into designing the Treiber T54SL, and most importantly, the fact that nothing you see here can be bought off-the-shelf. Most watches you see everyday—and especially those from the micro and independent watch market—are made up of commonplace watch parts. The hands, hour markers, cases, and bracelets tend to be more or less the same. However here everything was made specifically for Treiber which explains the higher than usual—yet reasonable, I insist—price tag. The other heart of the matter, so to speak, is the fact that the T54SL will be offered in four distinct and cool colors: Strawberry Red (limited to 100 units,) Blue/Gray (also limited to 100 units) Black, and White. As you may have noticed, we had the blue/gray variant in for review. Conclusion As mentioned in the introduction, you may have heard of Treiber before but never seen one of their models in the metal. I sincerely hope that you will do so soon as the T54SL is nothing short of exceptional. If it makes someone like me—someone who doesn’t care for vintage automobiles—fall head over heels for it, then there might be something in it for you as well. Technically speaking, the Treiber Gullwing is a solid piece of horology made with good components. The finishing is sharp and consistent throughout, and the transitions between brushed and polished surfaces are superb. The crystal is clear and the lume is good. From a visual standpoint, well, you already know how I feel about it: I’m in love. The last point I would like to bring up is the usual timeframe to receive the watch which is explained, once again, by the fact that everything is custom made for the brand. The Indiegogo campaign started a few days ago and runs through the end of June. Production is slated to begin in November 2024 and delivery for February 2025. I know this is a long time to wait but for once I would say the wait is worth it here. You can learn more about the brand by visiting Treiber’s website and this model by checking out the Indiegogo campaign here . Thanks for reading. FEATURED REVIEWS Monbrey MB1 L01 The Updated Grammar of Design Shinola Mechanic 39 The Return of American Watch Design at its Finest Delma Cayman Bronze A Supercharged Skin Diver

In-depth hands-on review of the Oris Big Crown ProPilot Big Date which to us is Its Own Spirit of a Pilot Watch in the world of micro and independent horology. Oris Big Crown ProPilot Big Date Its Own Spirit of a Pilot Watch May 6, 2025 In the Pantheon of military and tool watches, the pilot watch occupies one of the most praised seats as it has been around for as long as field watches have, and actually predates them. The history of pilot watches places the first one in 1904 when Cartier made a special model for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, though it looked nothing like what we consider to be a typical pilot’s watch today—to keep things simple, it was a Tank for the air. Not long after in 1909, French aviator Louis Blériot, wore one of the first Zenith Pilot’s watch when he crossed the English Channel. For all intents and purposes, the Zenith was a proper pilot’s watch for it had large hands, large Arabic numerals, and a large crown. There were a few more noticeable models that came after but everything became more streamlined and codified right before, during, and after World War II and ever since. So it is in this context that we continue our exploration of Oris’s core collections by turning our attention to the Big Crown ProPilot Big Date , a multi-word model name* which, although it is long, conversely and quite succinctly explains what we’re dealing with: a pilot watch with a big crown and a big date complication. End of the review. Actually there will be more to be said about this model as it is the brand’s proprietary take on the classical pilot’s watch, a modern one, but not Oris’s first foray into the genre. Indeed and actually, the Swiss brand was one of the first to make pilot-specific watches as early as 1938 by way of the first Big Crown which came with the iconic Pointer Date complication. The collection evolved over the decades and through the Quartz Revolution (let’s be positive folks and call it what it was!) and Oris introduced the ProPilot in 2014. *Funny thing: the actual reference number is 01 751 7761 4063-07 8 20 08P. Damn it Oris. Specifications The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Big Date (phew) and I were meant to meet and spend time quality time together because it has most of the things I look for in a watch: an ultra legible dial that comes with a beautiful sense of utility and purpose, great specifications, gray-ish tones, and a splendid case which fits my French wrist quite well despite measuring 41mm in diameter, 49mm lug-to-lug, and 13mm thick. So it isn’t that big but it does appear so on account of having a large dial opening and relatively mid-sized Arabic numerals. I imagine this is how many IWC’s must fit and look like on my wrist although I haven’t had the privilege of gracing one with the contact of my enthusiast’s wrist. Though with that said, I was quite moved by how comfortable the ProPilot is thanks to its wrist-hugging profile we will get back to later. The important Big Date complication is quite neat and made possible by the Oris caliber 751 which is based on a Sellita SW220-1 caliber (hence the red rotor**) and ticks at 4Hz and comes with 38 hours of power reserve. But it should be noted that the date aperture is not as big as it is on a, say, Glashütte Original SeaQ Date Panorama for example, however it is larger than what we usually find on any type of tool watch. So relatively speaking, it is bigger than normal and just about the right size for yours truly. The dial I already gushed over a little bit is as clear to see as is the bottom of a fresh water sinkhole, protected by a double-domed piece of sapphire complete with several layers of anti-reflective coating, and the aforementioned movement is equally easy to see for the same reason, minus the AR coating. Perhaps it doesn’t seem necessary to lume such a large and clean dial, but should you need to fly commando at night then you’ll be happy to know that the hands and markers are filled with—I assume because it isn’t specified—BGW9 SuperLuminova. Not only are the Arabic numerals, in actuality, three-dimensional blocks of lume, but they are complemented by lumed hash-marks, doubled at the twelve, for an extra something of nighttime legibility. And like many modern and somewhat luxurious pilot watches, the Oris Big Crown ProPilot Big Date is equipped with a (not that big) screw-down crown and case-back to give this model 100 meters of water resistance. Which is helpful as it makes it a good all-rounder tool watch that will be as legible and functional 30,000 feet above sea level as it would be 330 feet below it. **A red rotor in an Oris indicates a Sellita-based caliber which is absent on in-house movements. Design Alrighty then, we got a lot to talk about regarding the design so we better get started. And let us first return to the question of the date aperture and how big or not so big it is. It’s definitely larger than usual—than most divers, pilots, and GMT watches from the big names of the industry and the 1/2 million of micro/indy brands—and seems to be as large as the hour markers which creates balance as well as, indeed, make it possible to easily read the date. I personally love how Oris executed the integration of the date function here, not only because of its inherent legibility but also because it color-matched the date disc to the dial, actually making the former darker than the matte gray appearance of the latter. (I love the white-on-grey color scheme of this model.) So both singular and double-digit days are easy to comprehend at-a-glance and that’s all we need from a tool watch. And the ProPilot, like all proper aviation watches, is extremely legible but in a way that is its own and very Oris. First because the typeface used for the numerals seems to be bespoke to the brand and very similar (if not the same) as the one found on the Big Crown Pointer Date which is characterized by the roundness and perfect balance of each number. Note how the left arm of the “4” is domed and how the “1” is narrow. I don’t know how to describe the things that make up good typography but I certainly appreciate what I’m seeing here. The obelisk-shaped hour and minute hands of course contribute to the legibility, for they narrow down towards the tips but come out from the pinion strong with large and angled bases. And because their metallic contours are thin, the hands are easy to see even though they are polished because the large portions of lume—matte—offset the sun-reflecting polished areas. And then the case, a hero in its own right, with an engine-turned, propeller-like decoration on the bottom half of the fixed bezel (the upper half is polished,) and it seems that both parts are made separately which indicates how much attention Oris put into the design and manufacturing of this apparatus. I particularly appreciate how the knurking on the crown repeats the same pattern but at a contrary angle, which looks amazing as well as makes the crown easy to grip and operate. And this evident complexity of the crown and bezel construction is balanced by the simplicity of the case profile and finish, fully brushed, absent of chamfers (except for tiny ones on the outside of the lugs,) short lugs which turn down towards the wrist and such starting a few millimeters on either side of the crown, which makes the case sides appear like wings and create the wrist-hugging effect I mentioned earlier. The Heart of the Matter I was glad to spend some time with the Oris Big Crown ProPilot Big Date for a couple of reasons. First because I was very much attracted by its design—clean and direct, elegant and subtle. Second because it looks different from most other pilots watches from popular, historical, and iconic brands such as IWC, Laco, and Rolex. Moreover, because it comes with a lot of things that only Oris does. For example, using that particular typeface for the Arabic numerals, the dual bezel construction, the modified Sellita caliber, the airplane seatbelt buckle-like clasp which I had yet to mention—nothing gimmicky but everything that makes sense for a pilot’s watch and which is a delight to operate—, the muscular case, and the perfectly proportioned dial which reminds me of the core principle of Bauhaus industrial design. In other words, designing objects where form truly follows function and where simplicity and effectiveness are essential. Conclusion The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Big Date is a wonderful tool watch and comes with a matching price tag of roughly $2,540 USD on the stainless steel bracelet. I would argue, actually, that yeah it’s a normal price to pay for such a good utilitarian timekeeping device made in Switzerland—should that mean for you the same thing it perhaps means to me—from a brand that has been around since 1904, so which comes with a ton of heritage and legacy, and which has remained independent during its entire existence which is not something that can be said of the majority of historical Swiss brands. And this fact can be explained, I assume, by Oris’s perpetual willingness and dedication to make very good and unique watches which are relatively well-priced, which is something that wouldn’t be possible should it had joined a group. In any case, this review complements the one I made on the Divers Date and Big Crown Cervo Volante I wrote a while back. Thanks for reading. FEATURED REVIEWS Monbrey MB1 L01 The Updated Grammar of Design Shinola Mechanic 39 The Return of American Watch Design at its Finest Delma Cayman Bronze A Supercharged Skin Diver

In-depth hands-on review of the Vulcain Grand Prix 39mm which to us is Drawing a Subtle Attention to Your Wrist in the world of micro and independent horology. Vulcain Grand Prix 39mm Drawing a Subtle Attention to Your Wrist You know how trends, any kind of trends, bring us grouped styles of things all at once? Whether looking at fashion which recycles itself every two decades, psychological revolutions which mark an entire generation and not another, and even the rise and fall of technology—which then rises even higher and falls more heavily. Same is true of horology as it is 100% a human-made phenomenon. One such trend is to revive bygone brands which collapsed during the Quartz Revolution (I don’t like to say “Quartz Crisis”), and to re-edit their most iconic collections. Most of the time this process is thoughtfully done as we will see here today. Some other times, not so much. One could say that a brand revival is well done when it both pays homage to the past whilst embracing contemporary technologies and design trends. Vulcain was founded in 1858 and is most famous for creating the first wristwatch with a built-in alarm complication in 1947. It was revived in 2002 and has, from my humble perspective, only truly gotten back in the spotlight in the past three years or so. It did so by way of relaunching the original Cricket watch which was famously worn by a few U.S. Presidents. Today we’re taking a look at the Grand Prix which is the revival of a model from the 1960s which itself pays homage to a prize Vulcain won at the 1929 Barcelona World's Fair for its watch manufacture. (In other words, the model name has nothing to do with car racing.) The Grand Prix is a sporty elegant everyday watch, a style which was very common in the 1960s. Specifications I would normally not sign-up to review a 39mm time-only dress watch as I would feel that it just looks oddly large on the wrist (in relation to the little information there is to read on the dial.) But I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to review my very first modern Vulcain as, from the press shots, I could tell it came with a rather short lug-to-lug. Indeed, the Vulcain Grand Prix measures 39mm in diameter (that’s at the bezel, the case is 38mm,) it comes with a lug-to-lug of 44.5mm, a total thickness of 12.2mm, and a lug width of 20mm. On my 6.50”/16.5cm wrist, it wears great. I wouldn’t say compact per se, but good, as in “well-proportioned” for a modern, smart casual type of watch. It has a rather thin profile and a significant part of the thickness comes from the double-domed sapphire crystal. The fully polished case comes with a screw-down case-back and a push/pull crown endowing it with 50 meters of water resistance (which is what you find on many Omega Speedmasters.) Inside we find a Swiss made automatic Landeron L24 which beats at 28,800 BPH (4Hz) and comes with 40 hours of power reserve. (I’ve heard rumors that a Landeron movement built today is not akin to a Landeron movement built a few decades ago; it seems that the manufacture has also been revived, , but please correct me if I’m wrong.) Regardless of who or when the movement was made, it’s been ticking with a healthy beat and I was delighted by the smooth winding action of the crown each time I found it necessary to do so. Being an elegant sporty everyday watch, the Vulcain Grand Prix does not come with lume but instead showcases a perfectly balanced and gorgeous dial which I will return to shortly. This model comes in three colors—Silver, Champagne, and Black—and can ve gad on a variety of straps. The model I borrowed for this review was shipped on a soft, black leather strap which tapers from 20mm at the lugs to 16mm at the buckle. Note the machined buckle with its dual finish and perfectly embossed logo, the latter which we also find on the crown. Design From a design perspective, the Vulcain Grand Prix delicately (subtly?) flies under the radar. If I were to be an elegant human watch collector, I would opt for this model instead of a Rolex 1908, a JLC Ultra Thin, or an A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin any day of the months, as I found these types of watches to be too shiny for my personal taste. I also have a personal psychological issue spending as much on a watch as it would cost to spend a nice summer vacation in the South of France. Speaking of which, the Grand Prix retails for $1,300 USD which is perhaps a little higher than what you would prefer, however it remains reasonable for a Swiss Made timepiece that comes with a spectacular finish as we will see below. And as subjective as this might sound, the watch + bracelet had a “new watch smell” which I found quite delightful. There are two subtle stars of the show here working in perfect unison. First, the sunburst silver dial which is paired with a magnificent set of fully polished hands and applied hour markers. The hour and minute hands have a subtle “pencil” shape where the tips are triangular and the lower sections of the stems are thinner. The seconds hand is in the shape of a needle and, along with the minute hand, has a curved end. Note how each hand perfectly reaches its respective markers, a small and neat detail being that both the minute and seconds hands reach the minute track, but that the latter is a tad longer. This is the kind of design details that may go unnoticed but which make a big difference when reading the time or simply admiring the good looks of the Grand Prix. There is always one design detail which catches my attention whenever I look at a new watch. Here I would say it’s the hour markers. Thin, fully polished, and applied, they look absolutely gorgeous, and I appreciate the fact that they are doubled at the cardinal points. (This is not as useful here as it would be on a tool watch, however it gently breaks the otherwise perfect dial symmetry.) And going back to the point I made above, the second star of the show here is the impeccably polished case and how well it matches with its simple profile and, in particular, the thin mid-case section. It’s the type of finishing that we like to refer to as being “mirror-like” as it does reflect anything it catches. You really have to see this watch in the metal to appreciate the polishing. The Heart of the Matter At the heart of the matter is the fact that Vulcain recreated a classic watch adapted for the contemporary wrist and made with modern technologies. Did I wish it would be smaller? Yes, of course. You know me, come on? However, and as mentioned earlier in this review, the short lug-to-lug and—as I can now add—the simple case design, aid in making it wear comfortably and look quite amazingly good on my French wrist. Vulcain describes the watch as “Sober and elegant, the Vulcain Grand Prix on your wrist signals Kennedy more than Kardashian. This watch whispers when others shout; it expresses discreet luxury.” Yes, that’s true, and I would further say that it reminds me of John Hamm’s Don Draper character in Mad Men . By the latter comparison I simply want to refer to a style of watches that elegant business men wore in the 1960s, not to the ultra misogynistic and cutthroat ambiance of the PR agencies Mr. Draper worked at. (I still don’t understand why anyone in 2024 would want to emulate the Don Draper look.) But, in any case, if I were to attend a wedding tomorrow or the Met Gala which took place a few days back (by the way, I didn’t get an invitation,) I would absolutely sport a Vulcain Grand Prix as it does come with a sporty and subtle elegance which I like as it—once again—flies under the radar. (The flex radar perhaps?) Conclusion I’ve wanted to review a Vulcain for a while and I’m glad I got to finally do it. At the end of the day, the Grand Prix is an elegant and well-made timepiece which is endowed with a beautifully boring simplicity which is totally up my alley. No precious metals, no COSC or METAS certified calibers, no jewels-set applied markers or a $10,000 “Canopus-Gold” buckle. (Really, Omega?) This model shows that elegant, well-made watches don’t have to cost too much, and that if one is willing to dish out $1,300 USD, one can acquire a well thought-out revival of a timeless watch design. If you would like to know more about Vulcain, I recommend visiting this link . To know more about the Grand Prix, please take a look at that link . Thanks for reading. FEATURED REVIEWS Monbrey MB1 L01 The Updated Grammar of Design Shinola Mechanic 39 The Return of American Watch Design at its Finest Delma Cayman Bronze A Supercharged Skin Diver

Specialist in micro and independent horology, we write in-depth reviews, profile stories on brands, collectors, and influencers, as well as the critical role women play in horology. Read More REVIEW RZE UTD-8000-MY REVIEWS PROFILES PHOTOGRAPHY

In-depth hands-on review of the Tessé Michel GMT Limited Edition which to us is A GMT and Dress Watch All Packed Into One in the world of micro and independent horology. Tessé Michel GMT Limited Edition A GMT and Dress Watch All Packed Into One May 3, 2025 Today—May 3rd, 2025 to be exact—a watch can be anything. It can look traditional or not, be small or not, be colorful or not, and offer a new horological experience…or not. When I started writing about timekeeping devices in late 2020, we would already hear catchphrases such as “In this saturated market of microbrands” or “Everyday a new microbrand appears” or “How many divers do we need, seriously?” Well things haven’t slowed down since—quite the contrary—and we see more of everything, at any end of the price spectrum, looking like classic watches or like overly futuristic pieces of I-don’t-even-know-what-to-call-them. (Crap, that’s the word I was looking for. Crap. Pardon my French—special pun!) And as I like to repeat in every single one of my reviews, it is hard to come up with a new design that makes us, enthusiasts and journalists, want to look and talk about it. Today—May 3rd, 2025 as we know—we’re going to take a look at a new watch from another new brand, not from France nor Singapore nor the United States, but from Canada which is now the country where a lot of interesting horological creations seem to be coming from. Indeed, the model in question evidently piqued my interest as it proposes an interesting mix of various things I personally love about several watches—a sort of happy collision if I may say—with a little something of Seiko, a dash of Tag Heuer (maybe?), and a lot of what was best in terms of design in the 1970s—and too much to reference in this introduction or article for that matter. The brand in question is Tessé and the model is the Michel GMT Limited Edition . Note: the Michel GMT comes in four non-limited versions in addition to this one and is live on Kickstarter through May 22nd, 2025. Specifications The first thing you should know about the Tessé Michel GMT is how it wears on the wrist—wide and flat, and it has been a very long time since I've worn a watch that feels this way. (The last one was the Shinola Mechanic 39 .) Should I reach for a car analogy, I would say (and I’ve probably used this analogy before) that it reminds me of how glued to the asphalt an Audi Quattro A4 Avant feels, as it is one of the rare nice cars I’ve ever driven in my life. No, I don’t drive Porsche’s like many watch journalists seem to! So this feeling of the watch being glued to my wrist, and to feel securely resting on it, is mostly due to its dimensions which are as follows: 40mm in diameter (I would say width though since the case is more rectangular than it is circular,) 47.1mm lug-to-lug, 10.8mm thick, and coming with a 20mm lug width. Because the case of the Tessé Michel GMT is almost a square—85% to being one to be precise—its profile combined with its thinness is what makes it so darn comfortable to wear on the wrist and command such a nice physical presence on it. Despite its apparent classic-1970s design, don’t be fooled by how the Michel GMT looks as it is built by modern standards which is why we find, for example, 100 meters of water resistance (push/pull crown but screwed case-back,) a hardness coating of 1,200 Hv on Vicker’s Hardening Scale on the case, sapphire sandwich construction (double-domed on top and flat on the back,) and a Swiss made Élaboré Sellita SW330-2 caliber (4Hz/56 hours of power reserve,) which is regulated in five positions to run at -4/+6 seconds per day. All of this makes for a pretty good start for this review and that’s only looking at the spec sheet. We actually rarely see the Sellita SW330-2 GMT caliber nowadays ever since Seiko came up with the NH34 and Miyota with the 9075 movement. A Swiss GMT machine is certainly more expensive to acquire for a brand new brand and only long-established independents use them now. Does that mean Tessé made a bold move by starting out with a GMT and a Swiss movement inside? I feel we will find out in a few weeks of time once the Kickstarter campaign has wrapped up. Oh, I almost forgot to mention the lumed hands, applied hour markers, and GMT hand as well as the thick leather strap the Tessé comes with. In terms of case finishing, the Limited Edition comes with a rose gold PVD coating whilst the four other versions have standard stainless steel cases. The latter on all models display a very nice finishing and intriguing lateral decoration which we will talk about in a brief moment. Design I actually didn’t look at the spec sheet of the Michel GMT before agreeing to review it because I was mostly, and firstly, interested in its design. I liked the way it looked on the wrist of horological models in the brand’s advertisements and I was drawn to the visual and functional dualism of this piece. On the one hand it is an everyday dressy watch, on the other hand it is a tool watch dressed in fine clothing. (And I didn’t specify which version I would want to review and was hoping for the Grey one—of course—but I’m glad the brand decided for me to check out the Limited Edition as it is forcing me out of my comfort zone and into the bling department.) I for one love how the rose gold case looks paired with the black strap and black dial and how much these color accents, populating the hands and applied hour markers, are drawing me in. The first three hands (displaying the local time) are fully polished and rose gold looking, and unusually for me I find the needle-shaped seconds hand to be quite striking as its polishing pops more, and with added intensity, on account of its color. And the same is true of the baton-style hour and minute hands, half a portion of which are lumed, and how perfectly they are matched with the applied markers. The latter are beveled toward the center of the dial (except for the one at the three which was truncated to make way for a framed date aperture) and complemented by lume securely resting inside dug-in channels at their center, with a special note to be made about the augmented dimension—and therefore larger lume real estate—on the markers at the cardinal points. Again, the Limited Edition Michel GMT is not supposed to be my thing but it actually is my thing today. And the Tessé is indeed a functional watch on account of having a date aperture—with a color-matched date wheel as it should be noted for the most nitpicking of you—and a GMT hand painted in a glorious bright blue with matching markings for the 24 hour scale printed on the angled rehaut. Due to the fact that the hour markers are applied, the GMT hand has a snake-like construction, a perhaps questionable analogy to say that it was bent up and then flattened straight so that it clears the markers. To be more precise, the bend occurs above the beveled portion of the markers which makes the GMT hand perfectly integrate within the overall dial design. And the GMT scale is also fitting quite nicely here as the numbers and dots are printed small yet are legible. But there is more to see on the latter and which you probably didn’t notice (because of my photos? Sorry.) First, a center section that received a sunburst finish which creates subtle light plays when angling the watch even at the smallest degree; second, the fact that the portion of the dial on which the hour markers sit begins below the center section and angles up towards the rehaut and, moreover, that it is composed of two types of finishing: a narrower matte disc, then a larger disc endowed with a radial finish and on which are printed in white the minute hash-marks. The latter decor echoes the curved CNC-machined lines we find on the case flanks—since we haven’t yet talked about the latter—which, for some reason, remind me of old school lighters. The case is also quite eye-catching on account of its radial-brushed upper section, polished chamfers, and the fully polished and claw-like massive lugs. Oh friend, I love these lugs, and perhaps they look more like filed teeth—I can’t decide—should you look at their bottom section. Well, we can agree there was indeed a lot to see on the Tessé Michel GMT which is why I wanted—and knew I should—look at it up close. The Heart of the Matter There are two hearts of the matter today. First, the fact that the Tessé Michel GMT Limited Edition is a feast for the eyes. The combination of the almost square case with the multi-level dial, rose gold accents, the plethora of polished elements, and GMT functionality is quite brilliant in my eyes. Second, the fact that the brand is taking a risk by releasing a debut collection which comes in five versions, is equipped with a top grade Swiss made movement, and whose Kickstarter price is $1,235 USD. And of note is the fact that the full retail will be $1,650 USD which isn’t a lot for what you get, but certainly a lot for a first release from a brand you probably just heard about today for the first time. Was it the right move to make? Only time will tell, but what is sure is that today, May 3rd, 2025, a brand has to enter the indeed saturated micro/independent watch market with a band and that’s exactly what Tessé has done. Conclusion As mentioned in the introduction, the Michel GMT in all its five versions is currently available on Kickstarter through May 22nd, 2025. After that, Tessé estimates that production will be ready by August and shipping will begin in September, just in time for a new year of hard work (and of school for the kids.) I was glad to check out this first opus from Tessé as it offers a new kind of horological experience, one which oscillates between the worlds of elegant and practical watches, having a bit of the spirit of vintage Rolex GMT Master’s, Universal Geneve’s Polerouter, and other iconic models I cannot think of right this moment. If you believe that $1,235/$1,650 USD are fair prices for what you will get, then I encourage you to check out the brand’s website and Kickstarer campaign right now. Thanks for reading. FEATURED REVIEWS Monbrey MB1 L01 The Updated Grammar of Design Shinola Mechanic 39 The Return of American Watch Design at its Finest Delma Cayman Bronze A Supercharged Skin Diver

In-depth hands-on review of the Circula AquaSport GMT which to us is The Epitome of Quality Independent Horology in the world of micro and independent horology. Circula AquaSport GMT The Epitome of Quality Independent Horology In all of my explorations of the horological world, I’ve come across multiple brands that function independently and which output rather outstanding watches. The sort of timepieces that strike the perfect balance between legacy, design, and price. They are neither too expensive—to which point we would feel uneasy wearing them in public—nor of poor quality—in which case we would not trust putting them through high-octane adventures. The latest comment indicates that I’m indeed referring to sport and tool watches here, not dressy horological marvels. After all, it is the watches made for adventure that resonate the most with my inner horological inclinations. This reality proves that we don’t have to pay too much for a good watch, whether they are made in Switzerland, France, or Germany. Without making this review a historical analysis of German watchmaking, I do see a trend coming from the other side of my border: family owned brands that make solid tool watches that look unique. And, what’s even more interesting, timepieces that do not cost relatively too much given where they are made and what they are made of. On my wrist today I am wearing the result of more than 60 years of family-owned watchmaking coming from one of Germany’s oldest horological centers: Pforzheim, and the newly released Circula AquaSport GMT. In many ways, this watch represents what’s best about quality independent watchmaking and explains why my heart beats the strongest for this type of brand. Specifications I’m going to come right off the bat by saying that the AquaSport GMT is a spec monster. For a watch that retails between $1,180 (on the rubber) and $1,270 (on the beads-of-rice bracelet,) you get a lot for your hard-earned cash. (And I would be hard-pressed to find a better Swiss-made GMT diver with similar specs in this price range.) The celebration here starts with impeccable dimensions: a case diameter of 40mm, a lug-to-lug of 46mm, a total thickness of 12.6mm, and a lug width of 20mm. This means the AquaSport GMT will fit your wrist, whether you had the misfortune of being born with small wrists like me or if you had the privilege of being the offspring of two giant people. Circula made the case as compact as they could whilst making it water resistant to 200 meters and throwing in a GMT complication. I mean, come on! The GMT complication is provided by the Swiss made Sellita SW 330-2 caliber that ticks at 28,800 BPH (4Hz) and comes with 56 hours of power reserve. While it is already a good thing that Circula went for a Sellita movement and not, say, a Seiko NH34, the brand went a step further in choosing the Top Grade version. This means better accuracy, better resistance to shocks and magnetism, and a smoother winding action. Again, I need to remind you that the AquaSport GMT retails for way less than $1,500. Got it? This is important because it illustrates a point I will make later—or again—and which echoes what I wrote in the introduction: the AquaSport GMT represents what’s best about quality independent watchmaking. The good stuff doesn’t end here, however. The crystal is a slightly domed piece of sapphire crystal with two layers of inner anti-reflective coating; the 48-click bi-directional bezel is mounted on ball-bearings which are more durable and more precise than click-springs; the SuperLuminova BGW9 present on the hands, markers, and the bezel has the equivalent, in brightness relative to size, to a 120,000 lumen flashlight. Looking at the above list of specs, there is no doubt Circula built a tool watch that will survive the test of time as well as your most ambitious adventures. While the AquaSport GMT is not meant to be worn at a cocktail party—which I would definitely feel comfortable doing—it is 100% a capable tool watch. Design Being a tool watch, the AquaSport was designed with a function-first approach. All of what Circula put in the AquaSport has a purpose, and there is nothing extraneous that would hinder its functionality. In a nutshell: it’s a diver with a GMT complication. It is, therefore, legible and functional. The different functions of the watch have been meticulously thought through so that they could coexist. The timekeeping function is clearly indicated by long pencil-style hands and equally long applied hour markers. The GMT function is indicated by a small GMT hand and two GMT scales, one in the centre of the dial and the other on the bezel. The date function is tucked away at the 6 o’clock. Everything makes sense here and no two functions conflict with one another. The hour and minute hands come with a brushed finish which prevents light reflections, and are subdivided into two sections by a thin line. This makes it possible to add large sections of lume on the hands and to reinforce their construction. (The longer the hands, the more prone they are to bend over time.) The seconds hand, for its part, is painted lime green and comes with a lumed arrow-shaped element and reaches all the way to the minute track. The hands are matched with large, applied hour markers that also come with brushed surrounds and are endowed with generous applications of lume. This is how arranging the timekeeping function on a tool-watch should be approached by any watchmaker. The GMT function, as we know, is highlighted by a small GMT hand that has a blacked out stem and a yellow arrow-shaped tip. It points to a full Arabic scale painted on a thin recessed ring in the center of the dial, as well as the second GMT scale on the bezel. Everything is lumed here and the nighttime light show is even more visible given the fact that the bezel insert is made of sapphire. The added bonus of sapphire, as you know, is its scratch resistance. In other words, the AquaSport GMT is meant to get knocked over and to get a little too close to door frames—the bane of many watch collectors. Everything about the AquasSport indicates it is a serious piece of horological equipment. Back in 2013/2014, a younger and more alert me embarked on his horological journey. He was fascinated by purpose-driven tool watches, although his stifling upbringing clashed with his tastes in watches. He should have been more into dressy timepieces from brands whose names rhyme with latex, parka, and bungee jumping. Watches which, as we all very well know, cost more than a week long diving expedition to the Caribbean’s. When I think of this—expensive tool watches—I feel the world is upside down. A Rolex Submariner from the 1960s looked anything but luxurious, and its price tag reflected that. Many years later and heralding from Germany, Circula made the AquaSport GMT which functions as well as a Rolex and retails for what the Sub used to retail for in the 1950s. At Heart of the Matter So, at the heart of the matter is the fact that Circula made what we have all been looking for since the 1960s: a robust, affordable, and good-looking tool watch. For about $1,270 on the well-made beads-of-rice bracelet, the AquaSport GMT packs a punch. And while it is packed to the brim with great specifications—a bit like a Ferrari is overbuilt for speed—it comes with superior finish. A satin brushed finish adorns the case side and the top portions of the lugs, while a high-polish chamfers highlights the AquaSport’s delicate geometric profile. A neat detail can be found on the crown: a green ring whose color is echoed by the bezel markings and the seconds hand. It’s the sort of stuff that showcases the attention to details Circula opted for. Lastly, I would say this: for roughly $1,200, I do not know of many GMT divers that come with the same quality of manufacturing and extensive list of specs. Putting design aside—as it is the part of writing about watches that is the most subjective—, the AquaSport GMT is a proper tool-watch in its own right. And all of what Circula says about the brand on its website is true: they are dedicated to making unique looking, robust tool watches that can be passed down through the generations. There is something about any Circula model that says “Circula.” This sentiment most likely stems from their balanced design and functionality, their inherent purpose-driven nature, or their incredible proportions. I can spot a Circula from a mile away. Conclusion More and more often, I find myself thinking that the independent/microbrands (or “Microdependent” or “Indimicro” as I like to call them) sweet spot exists within the $1,000-$2,000 price range. Don’t get me wrong, there are many excellent watches for less than $1,000 and I tend to spend around $500-$750 on most of my watches. And, conversely, there are much better watches above $2,000. However, there is a certain magic that takes place when we spend between $1,000-$2,000 on micro or independent horology. Within this range, we generally we get quality manufacturing, good components, and more original designs when we find it in us to stretch our ever-shrinking watch budget. This is where the Circula AquaSport GMT lives and, as I hope you can now tell, it offers the good stuff. For more information about Circula and the AquaSport, don’t hesitate to check out the brand’s website here. Thanks for reading. 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