As much fun it is to write about tool watches—which I could happily do everyday for the rest of my life—we mustn't forget about the everyday elegant type of timekeeping devices which are, for many initiated and non-initiated humans, the one watch they’re looking for and need. When reading the words “everyday elegant watches” you might think of the Tissot Gentlemen Powermatic 80 (hello archaic genderism?) or a Rolex Oyster Perpetual or a Nomos Tangente. Indeed elegant in their classic appearance—polished cases and lots of polishing everywhere, legible but non-sporty dial layouts, and reliable movements. And I would argue that the majority of talking bipeds on this planet sport these kinds of watches and that, really, that’s all they actually need and want. But we watch nerds aren’t built the same because we like to collect timekeeping devices of all shapes and colors and prices. 

And there are things that matter to each and everyone of us more than others, for example what a few words printed near the six o’clock indicate, how much lume the dial has (and whether or not such and such watch is the ultimate lume monster,) or if the polishing is of the Zaratsu technique or not. Moreover, some of us only want to buy watches that come from a specific location on earth—France, Switzerland, Japan—as we consider each country to make the best watches over another. And more and more often in the past few years we—the collective “we” from the global watch industry—have been paying great attention to whatever comes out of Glashütte, a small corner in the easternmost part of Germany. The cradle of German watchmaking known for the high quality of manufacturing and finishing of cases and dials, and superior movements. 

Today we’re going to take a close look at the latest contestant from this part of the world, DUG which stands for Deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur Glashüttte and the Type 2 Purist.

Specifications

There are a few versions of the Typ 2, with four dial colors—blue, black, cream, and fumé brown—and the option to have a date aperture or not, and to receive the watch on a leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet. (Go for the bracelet.) And there is a Purist Typ 1 with a more classical dial layout and with the same dial colors, date/no-date, and bracelet options. For all intents and purposes, and whether you’re looking at the Type 1 or 2, DUG wanted to create the perfect everyday timepiece—elegant, classic, versatile and functional—whilst stamping the words “Glashütte S/A” on the dial and without charging you more than $2,000 USD for it. (The Purist Typ 2 with date and bracelet will set you back $1,476 USD, tax included.) So whether or not this is a good deal for you will depend on what you like in a watch and whether or not my photos will convince you that this watch is quite exquisitely made. 

So we’re dealing with a versatile timepiece and as such we can expect to see certain specifications. For example, a subjectively good water resistance of 100 meters (check,) a sapphire crystal (check,) a good application of lume (check,) a functional bracelet (check,) and a reliable caliber (check as well.) The latter is a Swiss made Sellita SW400 (4Hz/40 hours of power reserve) which is finished and decorated in Glashütte with an exquisite perlage finishing and rhodium-platted parts amongst other things. The catch here is that since 2022, 50% of the value of a watch has to be created in Glashütte in order for a brand to be able to stamp the magic name on the dial, and the SW400 qualifies because a lot of work has be done on it in that particular part of the world. I’m not versed in the decoration of movements and what makes something more exquisite than another, but I can tell you this: the caliber looks exquisite indeed. 

The sapphire crystal I mentioned earlier has a general flat profile with a tiny dome in the center, complete with inner anti-reflective coating. And we also find a piece of sapphire on the case-back. The latter screws-down and the crown doesn’t, and that little piece is in the shape of an onion (akin to pilot watches) and measures 5.6mm in diameter. Speaking of dimensions, the case of the Purist Type 2 measures 40mm in diameter, 47.5mm lug-to-lug, 10.95mm thick, and has a 20mm lug width. So overall contemporary dimensions for a quarter-in of the 21st century type of timekeeping device. The lume is indeed present in good quantities on the hands, applied hour markers, and in the shape of small dots on the minute track. The bracelet for its part is equipped with quick-release spring bars, screwed links, and an on-the-fly micro-adjustment mechanism. 

So how is the DUG Purist Typ 2 fairing so far? 

Design

I think we will agree that this model does indeed come with a healthy spec sheet that makes it a viable candidate, from a technical standpoint, to be a one-watch collection. And should you be into pilot-style everyday sporty horology, then you will also appreciate the way it looks. Just earlier I made a reference to the onion-shaped crown which is typically found on pilot watches, and indeed it is, so are large Arabic numerals matched with long hands, all of which exist on a watch that has a wide dial opening and therefore a thin fixed bezel. Historically, pilot watches had to be extremely legible at a distance—whilst tumbling around in a cockpit and keeping your hands on the stick—which is why we find this particular dial + hands + bezel proportions and design, and the crown shaped in this fashion so that it is easy to operate whilst wearing gloves. So it’s quite neat that DUG opted for the aviation inspiration here. 

Another such nod to this type of world can be seen—I believe—in the baton-shaped markers at the 3 and 9 which make me think of the horizon indicator on a plane’s dashboard. And these markers break up a little bit the visual rhythm created by the Arabic numerals on most places, a symmetry which is also interrupted on this version by the unframed date aperture at the six (it is framed by bevels) but which would have been another rectangular marker on the no-date version. (DUG chose the SW400 because the date is located lower and therefore looks better.) At the twelve we find three vertical batons organized in a way to form an hexagon to repeat the shape of the DUG logo found below it. I think the applied and polished nature of the hour markers and the fully polished logo make up a great part of the “elegant” portion of the dial, so do the fully polished, obelisk-shaped hour and minute hands. 

The last two points I would like to bring to your attention as they relate to the dial are the minute track and dial texture. The former is printed on the rehaut and framed by two horizontal lines which I feel looks quite neat. The latter has a matte and finely-melted-plastic like texture which absorbs light and which is complemented by a subtle fumé effect to make the hour markers pop. The case for its part has a fine design, classic in its proportions and profile, with however stubby lugs. The case shines to me for having a superior finishing with superb polished accents and chamfers. In other words, the case perfectly matches the dial in its design and finishing, making the whole package strike the perfect balance between elegant and sporty horology. In further words, indeed a great option for a versatile timekeeping companion. 

The Heart of the Matter

At the heart of the matter today is the fact that the DUG Purist Typ 2 is a type of watch I believe we don’t see enough of in the micro/independent watch market, with a few exceptions of course. And that is a classic and sporty looking everyday type of horology that makes for the ideal one-watch collection. And even though part of its soul is that of a pilot’s watch, the majority of it is that of an elegant timepiece. This can be explained by the predominance of polished accents on the dial and case—juxtaposed by one of the finest brushing I’ve ever seen—, the well-proportioned hour markers, the elongated hands, and the onion crown on account of its smaller size. Changing the proportions of a couple of these elements would have changed the core nature of the Purist, and we should also take into consideration the exquisite decoration of the SW400 caliber which does make me think of high-end independent horology more than run-of-the-mill tool watches. 

Conclusion 

The DUG Purist Typ 2 in this specific configuration (date and bracelet) will set you back $1,476 USD, tax included, which is a fair price to ask for what you get. Again, you will have to take my word for it when it comes to the quality of manufacturing and finishing, the winding action of the crown, and the potency of the lume. But I have been impressed and I want you to know it. Should you decide to pull the trigger on a Purist Typ 2 but don’t care for the date aperture, then you will shave off $113 USD from your balance. And should you not care for a stainless steel bracelet either, you will shave off another $113 USD from the total price. And if black or cream or brown are more of your colors, then you can also have these options. 

So I suggest studying the full DUG line up on the brand’s website. 

Thanks for reading.