It has been about two years since I whispered the following words to myself: “This watch is, and will be, my only grail.” Then I acquired the watch in question (the Formex Essence 39) and I’ve loved it ever since. It strikes the perfect balance between style, specs, and quality to make for a great one-watch collection. But I didn’t know that I would find myself thinking these words again until today. Until I got an opportunity to spend some quality time with the Fears Redcliff 39.5 Date Raven Black. A mouthful of a name that references a conversely classic, simple, and elegant everyday watch that can go anywhere and do anything for the sum of $3,300 USD excluding VAT ($3,960 USD including it.) Yes, that’s more money than I’m used to for a watch but I can already tell you it would be money well spent. 

Fears is an historical British brand created in 1846 by Edwin Fear and re-launched in 2016 by the founder’s great-great-great grandson, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. In less than ten years, the latter has become an icon of independent British watchmaking as he found his unique way of preserving Fears’ heritage whilst skillfully and diligently carrying the brand into the 21st century. And I couldn’t be more lucky than to write my very first review of a Fears watch by way of the Redcliff as it is the model Nicholas re-launched the brand with, albeit in a different iteration. In the past eight years, then, Fears has grown and matured to become its own thing, not just a faithful recreation of an old brand as it is too often the case nowadays. The Fears Redcliff is, as you already understand, a superb timekeeping device—for me. 

Specifications 

What often happens whenever a historical brand recreates past models—or adapts staples of its by-gone collections to the contemporary market—is to enlarge said watches in ways that are not always appropriate. Here you must understand that the watch becomes abnormally big and awkward as not all designs are made to be scaled up just because. However, Fears did a super job here (and yes I will be using the word “superb” quite a few times in this article) in sizing the Redcliff to the contemporary wearer: 39.5mm in diameter, 46.95mm lug-to-lug, 9.98mm thick and coming with a 20mm lug width. So, a diameter which I would generally consider to be too generous for a watch of this type (i.e. a three-hander + date,) however one that works more than fine here. I would already argue this: getting the proportions of a watch right is already a sign of skill and talent. 

Note on the dimensions: 1) they are unusually extremely precise which goes to show that Fears is transparent—a bonus point in my book; 2) the 9.98mm thickness only applies to the version I had in for review which comes with a closed case-back. A version with an open case-back exists and its thickness clocks in at a meager 10.37mm. 

Despite its modest thickness, the Redcliff boasts an impressive 150 meters of water resistance (screw-down crown and case-back,) which is quite neat for a watch that I would personally take on all of my adventures. (Because I like to look spiffy whether I’m snorkeling alongside the beach or walking my dog during a downpour.) Inside the Redcliff we find a Swiss Made Top-grade La Joux-Perret G100 which beats at 28,800 BPH (4Hz) and comes with a whopping 68 hours of power reserve. The movement is encased within a body of 316L stainless steel which displays a superb finishing, alternating mirror-like polished surfaces and satin-brushed ones in the right spots (more on that later.) Furthermore, the crystal is made of sapphire complete with inner and outer anti-reflective coating. In other words: the view of the dial and hands is as clear as crystal water. (Sorry, kind of a lame pun.) 

But the good stuff doesn’t end here. The hands are beveled (not flat) and made of rhodium-plated brass (which prevents tarnishing and corrosion) as well as being diamond-polished. The latter explains why all three hands are superbly polished and why adding a bevel was key in making the polished hands legible in all lighting conditions. (I’ve handled many watches that have flat, polished hands that completely disappear when looking straight down at them.) The applied hour markers have received a similar treatment in addition to having had copious amounts of X1 SuperLuminova hand-applied. Visually, the hands and markers are a perfect match. Technically, both are robust and finely finished. 

But wait, there is more. The Raven Black dial (so named after the feathery creature) showcases a superb (here it comes again) sunburst effect, created atop a galvanized coating (when a protective zinc coating is applied to steel to prevent rusting) which is itself topped by a clear protective coating. Perhaps now you’re starting to understand where your $3,300 USD have gone, and I would happily say that the asking price is already more than justified by simply looking at the Redcliff 39.5 from a technical standpoint. Add to that a consistent, and flawless finish on each square-micron of this model: from the case and the bracelet (the latter being a masterpiece in its own right) to the hands, markers, and sunburst effect adorning the dial. 

Design 

Moreover, the Fears Redcliff is as beautiful as it is well-made, at least according to yours truly. I love monochromatic and straight-forward timekeeping devices and this one strikes the (read: my) perfect balance between utilitarianism and daily elegance. Understand: the Redcliff is superbly legible and is such for two reasons: 1) the polished, rhodium-plated hour markers and hands perfectly contrast with the sunburst, semi-matte black dial; 2) the dial, as a whole, is beautifully symmetrical. The latter can be explained by the design and size of the hands and hour markers as well as the intelligent integration of the date aperture at the three o’clock: white numerals printed on a black color-matched date disc, a beveled frame, and the use of a bespoke typeface the brand calls Edwin. (Remember the name of the brand’s founder?) In other words, the date numerals are large and legible without commanding too much attention. 

Looking at the Redcliff from a global perspective, we do indeed find a coherent package and one which comes with a plethora of Easter Eggs. From the CNC-machined grooves present on the lowered minute track—the latter being incredibly legible from a distance—to the shortened applied hour marker at the three o’clock and the engraved screw-down crown displaying the superb (again) brand logo which we also find superbly (damn it) executed on the clasp. As mentioned earlier, the clasp is a masterpiece in its own right, both because it looks darn good and because it is well-made and functional. Indeed, Fears opted for screwed links, quick-release spring-bars, a mixture of full and half-links, as well as a built-in on-the-fly-micro-adjustment clasp. The clasp is deceptively small for coming with such tech. 

The Heart of the Matter 

At the heart of the matter is the fact that Nicholas Bowman-Scargill’s Fears created the perfect watch for me. Yes, I’m being egocentric here and I will not apologize for it. It isn’t everyday that I come across a watch that strikes the perfect—and even better balance found on the Formex Essence—between style and legibility. Because in my limited experience, of solely writing about micro and independent brands, watches tend to be one or the other but not both, especially at this price point. When I think about luxurious utilitarianism my mind goes straight to the Rolex Explorer 1 which retails for more than twice the price of the Redcliff. I’ve seen the modern Explorer 1 in the metal and I don’t think it looks better made or finished than the Fears. But that’s just my opinion and a free hot take for you. 

Earlier I mentioned the unusually precise measurements the brand lists on its website and I equated this level of precision to Fears’ willingness to be transparent—and therefore, a trait I consider showing how confident the brand is about its product. And this is not just a theory but a truth as Fears further indicates (on its website) where each part of the watch is made, something we don’t see coming from even the most—self-described—transparent of micro and indy brands. This is new and this is good. It sends the message that Fears knows what it’s doing and that the brand stands behind its products. It also indicates that good watches are still made in the same way they were half a century ago: by sourcing the best components from various locations (the latter which have changed over time) in order to make a great watch. 

Conclusion 

Going through the trouble of getting the good stuff to complement a Mainspring-perfect dial layout and handsome dimensions easily justify the asking price of $3,300 USD (excluding VAT.) Because, as one famous philosopher said, we can’t get anything for nothing. So while we are lucky to live in a time when we, watch enthusiasts, have plenty of options for quality sub-$1,000 USD GADA timepieces, it is equally great to be able to get a superior product for more money without having to become worried that buying a Redcliff would necessarily put us in the red. And unlike it is the case with luxury horology, the Fears Redcliff, regardless of how outstanding it looks, has a way of not drawing too much attention onto itself. In other words, I would feel comfortable sporting it on my skinny French wrist in any and all environments, something I wouldn’t do with many similarly priced timekeeping devices. 

Lastly, you should know that the Redcliff comes in different colorways as you can see on this page. And here is the direct link to the Raven version I told you about today. 

Thanks for reading.