In my humble quest of highlighting Women in Horology I was bound to write a review of a watch designed and assembled by a woman, though I didn’t know when and how that would happen. Because while there are quite a few female watch enthusiasts, content creators, and professionals out there (and perhaps more than you originally thought,) I had yet to string together several hundred words to discuss the specifications and design of a timekeeping device created by a woman because these, unfortunately, are rare. And I am glad to be able to do so today highlighting the work of Susan Galvin, a trained watchmaker whose Finnish heritage was infused into a series of unique looking watches she designs from her home in Australia. Susan not only designs and QC’s watches, which is what 99% of micro and independent brands do, but she also makes and services them which adds a unique context to this review.

The Loimu collection is (according to your humble servant) Susan’s most singular creation to date as it combines visual elements of everyday, dressy, and sport watches all the while being financially approachable and technically versatile. The thing with elegant looking watches is that they generally aren’t made for the exciting stuff in life—in terms of adrenaline rush and potential to end up in a hospital—and more for fancy black tie events or exhibition openings. (The latter two not being my personal cup of tea.) But, as we will see in this article, the Loimu is a capable and versatile timekeeping device. Price-wise, it will set you back $482 USD on a leather strap and $501 on the stainless steel bracelet, which is a fair price to ask for the high originality in design and for the comprehensive spec sheet this model is endowed with. The Loimu Tundra will certainly not be the first and last of Susan’s creations I will be reviewing on Mainspring. 

Specifications 

So what is this comprehensive spec sheet made out of? First, good average dimensions with a case diameter of 38mm, a lug-to-lug of 45mm, a total thickness of 11.6mm, and a lug width of 19mm. Yah I know, who on God’s Earth has 19mm straps at home? No one, right? Well, you may have some and you won’t need to buy additional ones because the bracelet perfectly fits the aesthetic of the watch and is generally well-made. (I tend not to quibble but I will today regarding the long scissor element which is twice as long as the clasp itself. This prevents the links at the twelve o’clock side from fully articulating.) However, the “H” construction of the bracelet does visually fit the watch nicely, the links are short, and the clasp is indeed small which is my personal preference. On my 6.50”/16.5cm wrist, the Loimu fits comfortably and commands just the right amount of wrist presence. 

Being first and foremost a watchmaker, Susan didn’t skim on the rest of the spec list: a Miyota 9015 caliber (4Hz/42 hours of power reserve), a flat sapphire crystal with inner anti-reflective coating, screw-down crown and case-back which provide a good 100 meters of water resistance, SuperLuminova C3 on the hands, hour plots on the dial, and on the crown. The 316L stainless steel case also presents a discreet play on finishings, with polished accents on the inner parts of the lugs and the lower section of the fixed bezel. A special note goes to the crown which is small compared to the case although not deprived of functionality: the knurling is deep guaranteeing an easy operation. While the spec sheet most likely appears to be standard to most of you, I get the feeling that it is comprehensive enough to guarantee enjoyable and safe everyday wear whilst not leaning into the over-engineered side of horology which would have doubled the Loimu’s price tag. 

Design

At the risk of sounding like the ultimate broken record spewing out far-fetched expressions and comments, the star of the show here is indeed the dial. The name of the collection, Loimu, is Finnish for “blaze” which is described as being a “very large or fiercely burning fire” which perfectly explains the effect created by the guilloché dial. The intricately woven, wave-like pattern plays intensely with the light, at times making the dial look bright purple and at other times, black, without ever compromising on legibility. The latter also looks like the two dimensional representation of a sun disc whose visual intensity is controlled by the matte ring which separates it from the minute track printed on the sharply angled rehaut. Moreover, the aesthetic of the center portion of the dial is further balanced by the polished and applied hour markers and logo which punctuate the dial. 

What is perhaps the most interesting about this dial is its dual nature for being a work of art and a practical element which indicates the time. The framed date aperture at the three, for example, contrasts with the rest of the dial on account of its inherent functionality and for the fact that the white date disc and black printed numerals pop. Though the said frame is particularly well made for having a polished outer section and matte inner one. (Something I’ve never seen before which indicates Susan pays attention to all details.) This duality further extends to the dial (actually, again) for we find lumed plots readily available to indicate time at night, printed on the matte ring. And when we look at the polished and leaf-style hands, we’re taken back into the art show, and yet again when we look at the fully graduated minute track we know we are dealing with a time measuring instrument. 

And Susan kept on adding visual elements which are rare to see and which are well thought out and executed. The crown for example, which as we already know is small but functional, is equipped with a lumed ring which surrounds the brand’s logo, which reminds me of a glowing sun hiding behind the moon during an eclipse. (Probably now what she was going for but hey, here we are.) And though all of this contrasts with a pretty much straightforward case design which comes with slab-sided flanks and short lugs which finish make them appear to be twisting inward (look at where Susan put the polishing.) In other words, the combination of the small crown, short lugs, and straight case sides make the dial appear to be larger than it actually is which is a neat effect—but difficult to translate in photos although images tell a 1,000 words. (But do they always?) 

The Heart of the Matter

Sometimes I feel that I’ve seen it all but then I get a package in the mail and, upon opening it, I’m met with a type of watch I had yet to encounter. (I did see images of the watch online of course but there is nothing like seeing it in the metal.) I’ve heard many great things being said about Susan’s horological creations and I’m glad I was able to borrow a Loimu to write about it. First because the dial texture and play with light is easier to appreciate in real life, as it does change greatly depending on whether Mother Nature was kind enough to let some sunshine pass through the Parisian clouds. (And even when She often doesn’t, the spectacle is quite intense.) Second because seeing it in person made it possible for me to better understand the strengths of this model which, again, I couldn’t appreciate before sizing the bracelet and sliding my skinny french wrist through it. 

And the Loimu’s strengths are twofold: first its unique dial design and dual nature, which is more intense and more impressive in person; second, the simplistic design of its case which was done so in order to highlight the dial. I do believe that any watch which comes with an intense dial—in other words, one which comes with either a bright color, an intricate texture, or both—needs to be complemented by a simple case profile. Otherwise all design elements of the watch scream for attention and we humans and watch nerds don’t have enough to give to all of them. This visual balance makes the Loimu Tundra easy to wear yet be a great conversation piece for those of you who are looking for that type of watch. But more importantly, the Loimu is a watch that has a lot of personality and that is true whether you’re looking at this variant or any of the other five. 

Conclusion 

Coming in at $482 on a strap or $501 on the bracelet, the Galvin Watches Loimu has a lot to offer in terms of design and specs. I would advance, perhaps wrongly, that the Loimu best represents Susan and her lifestyle, being a Finnish watchmaker living in Australia, a duality in life which we also find in her horological creations. The contrast between the guilloché dial and the polished markers and logo with the date aperture and fully graduated minute track creates a unique effect, presenting us with a beautiful and elegant watch which doubles as being a precise and functional timekeeping device. And because the Loimu is such a visual treat, I went outside of my comfort zone by reviewing the purple Tundra and I’m glad I did. 

I suggest taking a look at Susan’s website to discover the full roster of her watches. 

Thanks for reading.