I recently watched a YouTube video about Byung-Chul Han’s idea of “atomized time” which describes the juxtaposition of multiple events that have no beginning, no middle, no end. In other words, we do many things at once and don’t take the time to digest and reflect on what we’ve experienced. Something similar is happening in our niche world of horology and especially in the micro and independent watch market. Too many new ideas, new designs, new colors, and new dial textures are being released one after another and one after another. So things become confusing because many brands appear to reinvent themselves with each new collection. We barely have time to take in what was released six months ago that we are asked to welcome and appreciate a whole new concept. It's confusing and exhausting. 

Within this confusion exist brands that began with a new concept and stick to it throughout the years, like March Lab. Although the French brand has released many collections, it is best known for their angular, semi rectangular elegant timekeeping devices the brand appropriately named “Shaped Watches.” And in each of their collections we find common design elements which clearly indicate we’re looking at a March Lab. For example the color green, the large and decorated crowns at the 4 o’clock, and indeed bold, angular cases. So March Lab created its own unique design language—what made it stand out from the masses in the first place—and nurtures it, improves upon it with each new collection. In other words, what March Lab does is the opposite of “atomized design” in horology. 

Their newest release, the AM2 Slim Ultimate DLC is the perfect example of what the French brand does best. 

Specifications

This year (2024) I reviewed two models from March Lab: the AM2 Slim Electrique and the AM2 Millésime Mars 2024. Two models from the Shaped Watches collection, each offering something a little different. I liked the former because it comes with a day/date complication and a quartz caliber; I liked the latter because it came with a charming all-gray color theme. The AM2 Slim Ultimate sits, from a specifications perspective, in-between the two. First dimensionally for having a case measuring 36mm across, 40.6mm lug-to-lug, 10.9mm thick and coming with a 20mm lug width, which are virtually the same as the Electrique. Second, from a movement perspective as this model is equipped with a La Joux-Perret G100 caliber which beats at 4Hz and comes with a whopping 68 hours of power reserve. 

What is common to all Shaped Watches is indeed the large screw-down crown which here has a diameter of 6.2mm. Being so large and coming with an intense, March Lab logo-shaped knurling makes it easy to grab and operate. Coupled with a screw-down case-back we get 100 meters of water resistance which is more than decent for most adventures—being at the office or at home—you would want to take this type of watch on. We also find a sapphire crystal on top and what appears to be a mineral one at the bottom, tainted green, letting us take a peak at the G100 caliber within. There is a little bit of lume on the hour and minute hands as well outside the applied hour markers in the form of small dots, which is plenty, again, for this type of watch. 

Evidently, the standout element of the AM2 Slim Ultimate is the black DLC (“Diamond Like Coating”) treatment on the case and bracelet. DLC is known for increasing stainless steel’s scratch resistance as well as its resistance against tarnishing and corrosion. The black appearance of the DLC comes with subtle hints of dark brown which I found quite neat. (It looks cool on the wrist and I hope it does too in the photos.) The bracelet, which I raved about in the two previous reviews, is superbly made, thin, and comes with a secure fastening system for the links (a tiny screw goes into a long tube) and a bespoke clasp. Once adjusted, the bracelet does indeed feel secure and comfortable to wear. The combination of the 36 x 40.6 x 10.9mm case and my 6.50”/16.5cm wrist is just perfect. (To me, that is.) 

Design

At first I didn’t know how I would feel about a darkened watch and especially the dressy kind. I generally do not care for these kinds of case treatments but I must say I was immediately charmed by this one when I strapped the AM2 Slim Ultimate onto my wrist. As indicated above, the DLC coating is indeed not entirely black, especially at some angles, which renders it a tad less “in your face” than a pure black PVD treatment found on tool watches. The black DLC is matched to a dual-tone dial, dark green in the center and black on the periphery, meaning the case treatment seamlessly continues onto the dial the latter being, that is generally speaking and I believe being true for most watch people, the main interest of a watch. The DLC treatment even continues in the form of the color-matched date wheel and its boldness is matched by the fatness of the typeface used by March Lab for the date numerals. 

As this is the third AM2 model I’m reviewing, I can confidently tell you that the dial layout works, although it was a bit of an acquired taste for me at first. Just like the case shape and the use of the color green throughout all of its collections, March Lab codified the design language of many of its models with the use of tuning-fork shaped hour and minute hands. They work, they look great, and at home paired with the imposing applied hour markers and the CNC-machined texture on the dial. (The texture comes from the brand logo.) The hour markers have a little divot in the middle which is paint-filled to make them easier to see. And visually the divots match the slit ends of the hour and minute hands. As you can see, March Lab has created its own design language which only becomes bolder and bolder with each release. 

Last but not least, let’s linger a little on the case and bracelet shapes and colors. The case has a bold design, coming with wide and sharp angles on all sides, where the integrated lugs open up horizontally to frame the end-links of the bracelet. One small design detail I always go back to with the AM2 collection is the dip the case makes between the lugs and above the end-links, as if metaphorically the latter were flowing out from underneath the case. Although the case of this model has the same design as the one found on the AM2 Slim Electrique and Millésime Mars 2024 models I reviewed earlier this year, the black DLC coating here highlights its bold and unique shape. And maybe it is just me, but the bracelet appears as if being made of ceramic thanks to the DLC coating. 

The Heart of the Matter

At the heart of the matter is the fact that March Lab is de-atomizing watch design throughout its Shaped Watches collection. Maybe that the reference I made in the introduction (that of Byung-Chul Han’s idea of atomized time) is a little far-fetched in some aspects—which I agree it certainly is—and my point is to say that French brand is good—very good—at creating unique horological design codes and improving upon them with each new release. The AM2 collection was something strange and different when it first came out, especially for a dress watch, but its evolution in terms of colors, sizes, and mechanisms (swapping an automatic movement for a quartz one and then a three-hand automatic for a GMT one) is going a long way in formalizing and normalizing the Shaped Watches line-up, since March Lab continues to release new models within it and to go a little bolder with each new release. 

What I’ve observed throughout the past two to three years is that it has become customary for brands to charge more and more for things that are novel and better made. Add a rare dial color or a higher grade caliber and you can charge 50% extra compared to the base model. And it makes sense that things become more expansive over time due to inflation and the higher cost of better stuff. But you might be surprised to hear, just like I was, that the AM2 Slim Ultimate DLC retails for $1,895 USD (excluding taxes.) Of course two grand is a lot of money to spend on a watch but it’s a reasonable amount to dish out on this model. One that comes with a unique design, a great movement, a solid construction, and a badass DLC treatment all of which put together we have “never seen before.” Yes, I said it! 

Conclusion 

The March Lab AM2 Slim Ultimate DLC is available for direct purchase from the brand’s website starting today, November 21, 2024. Setting this model side-by-side with the thousands of models that exist from large, small, and young brands and coming under $2,000, I would be hard-pressed to find a more compelling offer for a bold, dressy timepiece that looks unique and which is well manufactured and finished. Because beyond the black DLC treatment and the dark color scheme, the AM2 Slim Ultimate remains a well-made watch, not something that is simply gimmicky on account of the DLC treatment alone. The more I look at this watch on my wrist and the more I like and appreciate it for all of the good things it offers. 

Thanks for reading.