What did the first professional divers (e.g., Rolex Submariner, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Seiko 62MAS) have in common? I’ll tell you: they each looked different and offered something new. All of them, however, were dive watches. In other words, timekeeping devices specifically designed to be submerged in water. But they each came with their own design codes. And to summarize decades-worth of the evolution of watch design, most divers created since have looked more or less the same. I know, I’m greatly generalizing here. But my point is this: it’s nice to see a brand come up with a dive watch that has a different vibe to it. Not one that is 100% purpose-driven— though that is my personal preference—but one which would actually look the part at a cocktail party. 

Do you mean a dressy tool watch? Yes, they exist and they come in many shapes and forms. For example it is now accepted that a modern Submariner looks good paired with a suit, although it wasn’t a diver’s initial task to help its wearer keep track of time during a fancy night out. Same can be said of a Doxa SUB200T, an Omega Seamaster, or a Tissot Heritage Diver. However, and what makes today’s protagonist interesting, is the fact that—again—the aforementioned models were not designed with fancy attires and parties in mind. But I would argue that the March Lab BONZER Bronze was indeed designed to look stylish during the after-wave-riding social encounters and cocktails. And yes, it’s an actual tool watch too. 

Specifications 

Looks can be deceiving and by now we know better not to judge a book by its cover. Or a watch by its stated dimensions. Because measurements are not the end of it all as it is the case here. Indeed, the March Lab BONZER Bronze measures a svelte 41mm in diameter, 46.8mm lug-to-lug, 12.25mm thick, and comes with a 20mm lug width. So it isn’t a tiny watch and it isn’t a massive one either. Luckily for small-wristed people like me, the screw-down case-back sits flat on the wrist and the screw-down crown is located at four o’clock so that it wouldn’t dig into my wrist while riding the world’s largest waves. (Who am I kidding? I’ve never surfed in my life.) However, as a diver and normal human being who wears watches on a daily basis, placing the crown in such a location is always a bonus. 

As its name indicates, this model is made of bronze, an alloy traditionally used in maritime-related activities as it does not corrode, unlike stainless steel. I believe the first diving helmets were made of bronze but I would need to consult Jules Verne on that one. Bronze is also a material that will create a unique patina depending on how much exposure it gets to salt water, sun, sweat, and all of the other good stuff we expose our bodies to everyday. (Carbon dioxide or locusts perhaps?) And why I don’t see any good reason to do so, it seems bronze cases can be brought back to their factory-fresh appearance by scrubbing lemon juice on them. But why oh why would you do so? Note that the crown, bezel, and strap buckle are also made of bronze. 

Speaking of the strap, March Lab opted to get a bespoke rubber one made for this model. It is thick and supple, equipped with two large nomadic keepers, and quick-release spring-bars. The upper and lower sections of the strap display the brand’s logo pattern which we also find on the crown and bezel. (Little did I know that a particular shape of a logo would make for the perfect knurling pattern.) Moreover, rubber is known for being resistant to the same elements which give bronze its patina, in other words, you are assured to have a diver which can defy the elements. On that note, the BONZER Bronze is equipped with a Franco-Swiss Lajoux-Perret G100 which ticks at 4Hz and comes with 68 hours of power reserve. 

To complete the spec sheet, this model comes with 100 meters of water resistance which is enough for 99% of humans but, subjectively, many watch enthusiasts need at least a 200-meter depth rating to safely commute to work. The crystal is a piece of domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating and there is a modest presence of unspecified lume on the hour and minute hands. 

Design 

Despite what I said in the introduction, the March Lab BONZER Bronze utilizes classical design codes of dive watches: legible applied hour markers, a prominent handset, a date aperture at the three o’clock, a count-up bezel, and a contrasty color scheme which is here non-traditionally gold-toned set against a matte black dial. However, the applied hour markers have an Art Déco appearance, the modern-looking typeface for the date numerals is original to March Lab, the bezel insert is made of glossy ceramic and the minute markers on the latter have the same bronze/gold tones as the factory-fresh case. And the limited application of lume denotes a not so intense intended use of this model. In other words, a commercial diver wouldn’t choose the BONZER over a Citizen Promaster to solder the pillars of an oil platform in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. 

With that said, and although I'm not a huge fan of overly gold-looking watches, I do appreciate the darker aspect of bronze and its mostly brushed treatment which offsets the visual busyness and intensity of the knurling found on the crown and bezel. (Both in my opinion also look Art Déco-ish.) What’s interesting to me is the fact that the inside chamfers of the lugs are polished which pairs well with the glossy finish of the ceramic bezel insert. I think you’re starting to see that I find myself a bit confused as to how to best describe the BONZER Bronze. And regardless of this fact, I like the way it looks. The black/bronze theme works well here and reminds me of a Nodus diver I reviewed a while ago for Fratello. I didn’t know I would appreciate such a color combo. 

The Heart of the Matter

At the heart of the matter is the fact that March Lab created a diver that is unique to the brand’s aesthetic and which stands out from the myriad of dive watches currently available on the market. Retailing for $1,888 USD, the BONZER Bronze is priced higher than what I’m used to for an independent underwater timekeeping device, and its retail price can be explained by the choice of movement, case material, and bespoke rubber strap and date wheel design, as well as the great fit and finish this model is endowed with. I feel a bit weird waiting until this far into the review to say that indeed, the BONZER is a well-made watch as it wasn’t the first thing which I thought useful to mention. As you understand, I really wanted to talk about its quirkiness and contradictory nature. 

So the March Lab is indeed well made. I particularly appreciate the superb action of the unidirectional, 120-click bezel which is firm, consistent, and lines up perfectly with the 12 o’clock marker applied on the dial. As mentioned earlier, the unique pattern of the knurling found on the crown and bezel make both easy to grip and operate, which is quite neat as the brand managed to put to good use the unique design of its logo. The strap is also quite superb and definitely looks and feels purposeful, ready to brave the elements. And although it's made of rubber, the unique pattern printed on it makes the strap weirdly appropriate to be worn during the post surfing competition soirée as it gives the wearer a sporty yet distinct style. 

(Again, I’m not a surfer so I don’t know what kind of socializing normally takes place during surfing competitions; I was simply trying to make a point without again mentioning James Bond attending a cocktail party after killing the bad guys in a submarine.) 

Conclusion 

The BONZER Bronze is not the first March Lab model I have reviewed for Mainspring. A few months back I took a look at their AM2 Slim Electric and AM2 Millésime Mars 2024, two dressier models which comes with the same four o’clock crown, tuning-fork shaped hour and minute hands, and contradictory visual and technical aspects which makes it possible to categorize them as both being dressy and sporty models. And this is also what we find here today with the BONZER which, according to me, can be used for both aquatic related activities as well as more fancy occasions. Perhaps the post-competition socializing cocktails? Ok, fine, I give up. 

This model, like many from March Lab, is readily available for immediate purchase and shipping on the brand’s website for the price of $1,888 USD. 

Thanks for reading.