It was a thoughtfully put together video ad that got me to buy my first “serious” watch. A diver, worn in the video by a handsome and slender bearded man, wearing a thick sailor-like turtleneck, staring at the ocean from his humble beach house at dawn whilst sipping on a cup of steaming coffee. I idealized and romanticized the vision and clicked “Add to cart.” I didn’t see myself in the guy portrayed in the video—because I look nothing like him—but I could relate to the character’s passion for the ocean and exploration. The unknown natural world, the solitude that comes from the yearning for adventure, and of course the ideal watch for the occasion. (Notwithstanding the perfect cup of coffee in the perfect mug letting out the perfect stream of steam. Perfect.) I’m a sucker for clichés. 

In my personal horological journey I’m attracted to good stories. We all are attracted to good stories even when they pertain to something else than watches. I heavily gravitate towards mid-century adventure, exploration, and military watches on account of the alleged bravery that they are tied to (although not always in perfect form.) And the more I lean into horology’s past, the more I become attracted to early 20th century timekeeping devices. Which explains why I love New York-based Lorier—for the watches they design—and, more importantly, for the two humans who run the brand: Lauren and Lorenzo. Two extraordinarily authentic and generous people whose vision for the perfect timekeeping device is unique, affordable, and transparently anchored into a certain past. Their latest collab, the Rambler, perfectly exemplifies Lorier’s design and horological ethos. 

Specifications

If you are familiar with Lorier you know that the brand generally sticks to below 40mm watches. This is due to the fact that Lauren and Lorenzo are indeed passionate about certain periods of horological design which embraced appropriately-sized and refined tool watches. Once I had come to terms that I prefer smaller watches—a process that took nearly three years—I was able to fully appreciate Lorier’s extensive catalog of debonair adventure watches, whether they are made for adventures that take place above or below sea level. Because regardless of which type of adventure you’re looking for, Lorier has the right watch for you. I’ve owned and reviewed several Lorier models, including the Falcon MkIII, the Neptune MkIV, the Zephyr, the Hydra MkII and MkIII, the Astra, and the Hyperion MkI and MkII. So, since this is my magazine, I will declare myself a Lorier specialist. 

All of this is to say that the Rambler is 100% a Lorier model and one that has quickly become a favorite of mine. It is so because of the case proportions and design, the intense and charming vintage aesthetic, and the subtle ties to key historical references. Subtle in the sense that Lorier does not simply copy/paste design elements from previous references. But instead weave them in, in ways that are subtle and elegant. So the proportions are a good example of this and are such that the Rambler perfectly fits my 6.50”/16.5cm wrist thanks to having a diameter of 36mm, a lug-to-lug of 44mm, a total thickness of 11mm, and a lug width of 20mm. A nimble case which nevertheless boasts 100 meters of water resistance (screw-down crown and case-back.) 

Like all Lorier models (well, except for the Zephyr) we find a domed hesalite crystal which contributes to some of the vintage appeal the Rambler comes with as well as providing sensical resistance to shocks. (I put my Lorier’s through their paces and they did superbly well. Even the deepest of scars can be polished away from the crystal.) And the brand generally equips its models with Miyota calibers which is indeed the case here—a 90S5 (4Hz/42 hours of power reserve.) Moreover, daytime and nighttime legibility is guaranteed thanks to generous applications of light orange SuperLuminova lume which indeed appear orange during the day and glow green during the night. Coupled with a supple brown leather strap equipped with quick-release spring-bars, the Lorier Rambler is a full package. 

Design

One of the many things Lorier does well is to write blog posts for each new release in which Lauren and Lorenzo tell us about the vintage watches they drew their inspiration from. This is rare, unfortunately, as most micro/independent brands prefer to claim originality in design or remain vague as to what inspired them. So for the Rambler Lorier drew inspiration from three watches—a Rolex Oyster Imperial ref. 2595, a Universal Genève ref. 20504, and an Omega 6B/159—which you can read more about on their blog. All of this put together and complemented by Lauren and Lorenzo’s creative genius we find ourselves with a vintage-looking and ultra legible “watch.” Not a field or exploration or racing watch, but a good “watch” that is appropriate for any adventure and any situation you could find yourself in. 

As always with Lorier, the case has an elegant and simple profile, thin drilled lugs which point down towards the wrist, a horizontally brushed narrow mid-case, a large crown, and elegant polished chamfers. Lorier got the design of their cases down to a science, a vintage science that is, as they look particularly classic as if they had been designed a century ago. The thin fixed bezel comes with a discreet alternation of brushed and polished accents and seamlessly flows into the domed profile of the hesalite crystal. Seen from any angle, the case is charming, well-proportioned, well-finished, and perfectly supports the design of the dial. Opting for a 20mm lug width for a 36mm case means that the case is balanced and looks a tad more modern than it would have with an 18 or 16mm lug width. 

And the dial is superbly designed and laid out. An old-school cool cream, matte dial makes for the perfect backdrop for the heated-blue pencil-style hour and minute hands, the red needle-shaped seconds hand, as well as the painted Arabic numerals and triangle for the hours. A black printed railroad minute track completes the early 20th century style in addition to being super legible. (For those of us who like to set and keep precise time.) Lorier indicated on its website that the Rambler was designed to be legible for riding on the open road and indeed it is. And it is legible for any adventure or activity and equally suited for work and socializing on the weekends. (As all Lorier watches are.)  

The Heart of the Matter

At the heart of the matter is the fact that Lauren and Lorenzo came up with another home run release. Compared to many other micro/independent brands I review models of, Lorier doesn’t release that many models each year as (I imagine) they like to take their time to design each model to ensure that (1) it perfectly captures the design and spiritual zeitgeist of a certain time period and (2) it fits within their full catalog and is true to their vision for horology. This explains why the Rambler looks as good as it does and that it shouts “I’m a Lorier”! from one hundred miles away. And that’s a good thing because it seems to be becoming harder and harder for watch brands to find their identity and to have the courage to stick to it regardless of whatever new trends other brands come up with or decide to follow. 

The Rambler was created in collaboration with Janus Motorcyles which manufactures custom-made, vintage-inspired, and spiritually authentic motorcycles for those who like simple things to which we can organically be connected. Machines we can feel and interact with, work on ourselves, and truly enjoy riding. I find it fascinating, although not surprising, that Lorier would collaborate with Janus. I love motorcycles but I know little to nothing about manufacturers and specs. But I never heard of them, which shows to me that Lauren and Lorenzo do indeed put a lot of effort into finding the right brands to work with. Not big name brands that would automatically put them under the spotlight. Rather, low-key brands that share the same design and creative ethos as Lorier. 

Conclusion 

The Rambler is a fantastic piece of horology. And of course it is so since it was created by two of my absolute favorite people of the whole watch industry. Just like it is true that outside of watches it is difficult to find authentic and good people (not being cynical here, just relating my own life experience), it is equally difficult to find such folks within the watch industry. Because Lauren and Lorenzo invest so much time and effort into creating each new model, I anticipate them like I would for the second or eighth season of a very good TV show. Not one that releases a new season every six months, but one which took one year to make. So something that is well thought out and that is deeply creative. 

I guess you understand that I love the Rambler and Lorier. Although it is currently sold out, the Rambler retails for $499 USD and will hopefully be back in stock soon enough. 

Thanks for reading.