There seem to exist different types of micro and independent brands. There are those which blindly follow trends and bow to customers’ will so much that they lose track of who they are. There are others which output lazy homages of iconic models and claim creative genius. And there are a few extra brands which do what they want and are laser focused on their goals. The latter type is what interests us the most here at Mainspring because they are authentic and allow themselves the luxury of time to massage good ideas into brilliant collections. And it’s quite easy to spot these brands by the originality of their design and the superior quality of their watches. In a way, they function like high-end horology houses without the financial backing and in-house engineers and watchmakers. And because they work with so little and accomplish so much, they should be talked about more. 

Today we’re going to take another look at the Australian brand Second Hour and their latest release, the Mandala MKIII. It’s a third generation so there was a first and second, and because we already looked at this collection before and all of what makes it stand out from the busy crowd of everyday/GADA watches—because that is what it is—we’re going to take a slightly different route today and talk about its design and specifications from a more philosophical perspective and frame both within the context of what we find on the micro/independent market these days. (That doesn’t mean you won’t get a precise overview of what this watch is, of course.) First thing to note about Second Hour is that the brand lists its prices in Australian dollars only, and the Mandala MKIII retails for $920 AUD which comes down to $590 USD which is a stupidly low price to pay for what you get. 

Specifications 

What ticks and what a watch is made out of does matter to many of you so of course we will go through this beauty’s complete spec sheet. But with a twist. And you will quickly realize there is a theme going on with the Mandala MKIII and that is of superior value compared to what you normally get on the independent market. Images don’t always say a thousand words—sorry for attacking an overused cliché—because you have to handle the Mandala MKIII with your enthusiasts’ paws in order to see and grasp what I’m looking at while typing this review: a superbly made timekeeping device which is equally unique to look at, a rare combo to come across in the micro/independent watch world despite what many brands try very hard to make you believe. This model is indeed made far better than any big brand watch I’ve had the opportunity to review in my young career as a watch whisperer. 

Second Hour made a few choices to keep the price tag as low as possible and so that they could invest more of their modest capital into finding the best manufacturing partners. They told me so more than once and I believe them because I’ve reviewed quite a few of their models in the past four years and I can attest to the consistent—and improving—quality of their watches. Which is why for example we find a Miyota 9015 caliber inside (4Hz/42 hours of power reserve) and not a La Joux-Perret or Soprod many self-proclaimed journalists and experts say are better and should be standard now—I mean, who the fuck decides that besides themselves? And I would add the 9015 is an excellent movement and does permit to keep the price tag well below $1,000 USD. Second Hour also simplified the design of the crown whilst making it easier to grip, again perhaps saving a few bucks on that front.

Moreover, the crown and case-back screw down and we get a sufficient 100 meters of water resistance, because once again, why on earth do we actually need more of it? Let’s be honest with ourselves and admit that most of you reading this review and myself will rarely go deeper than 10, so again that’s a bizarre standard to have imposed on watch brands. (What a good friend of mind defines as being the “Watch Wisdom" of today which also demands, for example, that all crowns should be signed, seconds hand lumed, and watches to retail for $200 USD because that’s what AliExpress offers.) So endowing the Mandala MKIII with a realistic depth rating makes it possible to keep the watch thin—10.5mm including the crystal—which makes it more comfortable to wear which is more important for daily use than having 200 meters of water resistance. Add to that a diameter of 40mm, a lug-to-lug of 47mm and lug width of 20mm, you’re good to go friend. 

What is also more useful than underwater-demining-squad-level-of-water-resistance is scratch resistance, also it isn’t necessary to me personally, but here you have it on the case—1,200Hv—and on both crystals—top and bottom—made of sapphire. The top crystal is complete with several layers of anti-reflective coating so that you won’t complain on your YouTube review that the dial could have needed more of it. And because Watch Wisdom has also deemed it necessary, the bracelet has screw-pins, quick-release spring-bars, and an on-the-fly micro-adjustment system to aid with everyday comfort. An old-school clasp would have worked equally well and wouldn’t have shocked me in a watch that retails for $590 USD. All of this is to say that, by just looking at the spec sheet, the Mandala MKII offers extreme value, even when being compared to the best of AliExpress brands because it also comes with a singular design and a Mount-Everest-Peak level of attention to detail. 

Design 

Yes, the Second Hour Mandala MKIII has a singular design which I already fully described in my review of the Mandala Burst in 2023, which I published almost a year ago exactly. Whether or not its aesthetics will charm you into pulling the trigger on one or make you stay clear of the brand’s website, I know you agree it doesn’t look like anything else you’ve seen before. This means Second Hour took a gamble when releasing the first Mandala in 2021, because what is different is scary, and what people haven’t seen before do not make for the best of flex watches, but they certainly do make for the best conversation-starter pieces although this shouldn’t be the reason why you buy a watch. You have to acquire one because its design speaks to you and because you appreciate what message it has the power to communicate to the world about who you are—authentically—by way of steel cases, luminescent paint, polished hands and 7-link bracelets. 

And the Mandala MKIII is the type of watch you could buy after buying the first and second generations because you appreciate it when a brand sticks to its guns and refines and revisits a design which you already like. Second Hour did just that, thinning out the lines which surround the applied hour markers, decreasing the size of the numerals printed on the rehaut, extending the guilloché pattern below the framed date aperture, doing away with the fumé effect, and by offering new colors—the delightful Bumblebee we’re looking at today, Midnight Black, Silver Blue, and Mint in addition to Bull Eye’s Red and Salmon. And all of the aforementioned upgrades to the design are also good reasons to pull the trigger on your very first Mandala, for they perfectly complement the already stellar and singular design of this collection. Moreover, I invite you to take a close look at the case design which is equally unique and well executed. 

The Heart of the Matter

At the heart of the matter today is the fact that Second Hour continues to offer excellent value watches and that their value is not only contained in their specs and design, but more so in the brand’s commitment to creating something new and to consistently refine their offerings over time whilst ignoring most of what is visually and technically trendy. Because let’s be frank, Second Hour did answer some of the calls put out by the watch community by upgrading certain specs, for example putting on-the-fly micro-adjustment systems in their clasps. But it boldly ignored the frenzy over stone and nature-inspired dials, carbon-fiber cases, full-lumed dials, and high-end Swiss movements. At least it has until now. So the brand stays on course to offer something no one else offers, at prices which defy business soundness and stability, but which make us watch nerds able to acquire a unique and superbly made piece of horology. 

Conclusion 

Please take a moment to read my 2023 review of the Mandala Burst to get a better sense of the design and its meaning, which I didn’t really talk about here again so that we could focus on something more pertinent: the immense value Second Hour built into the Mandala MKIII. On specs alone, it beats many watches currently available on the micro/independent watch market for the same or a higher price. On design it has no equal. And on quality of manufacturing and finishing, I don’t know why anyone would pay four times more for a model half the watch the Mandala MKIII is. For $590 USD, you truly get what you paid for and much more than that. And bonus for you: I got out of my comfort zone reviewing a non-monochromatic watch today, yipee! 

Please check out this link to discover the full range of the Second Hour Mandala MKIII and, of course, to buy one.

Thanks for reading.