RZE Fortitude GMT-S Silver Sunburst
RZE’s Statement Piece
“I’m a Rolex fanboy” he exclaimed with great pride. “For me it’s Cartier all the way” she responded. I was confused. Why did the two protagonists of my imaginary conversation want so badly to self-identify as belonging to one brand over another? (Although this exchange is imaginary, I did hear people make these statements in real life.) Well, I decided to play along and drop a bomb: “RZE is the best brand in the micro/independent realm.” They both gasped, turned to me, and fainted. Their health suddenly deteriorated not because my statement was wrong but, in fact, because they knew, in their heart of hearts, that it was true. And here I’m not saying that RZE is such solely based on aesthetics—because what is beautiful and what isn’t is purely a subjective matter—, but more so from the perspectives of heritage and inventiveness. (Or I should say creativity, but you catch my drift, right?)
Although RZE’s nascent heritage is not comparable to that of a Rolex or Cartier, it is quite significant in the segment of the horological market which interests me—micro and independent horology. RZE was the first independent brand to make full-titanium tool watches (case + bracelet), to pair them with extra stuff which transform them into more robust and more valuable (read: of higher spec-to-ratio value) timekeeping devices, and to have established a clearly recognizable visual DNA which the brand spread out throughout its entire catalog. For the latter, RZE did not find contentment in using the same case shape for all models, but rather to adapt the same bold approach to design and functionality. Today’s protagonist, the Fortitude GMT-S Silver Sunburst, is the epitome of the brand’s ruthless creativity.
Specifications
Looking at all specifications the RZE Fortitude GMT-S comes with, we are undoubtedly looking at a modern tool watch. One which competes and surpasses numerous models from other brands which fetch much higher prices. And the latter, although cost more, don’t necessarily look as singular as the Fortitude does. But that is a point which I will get back to later in this review. In addition to being a tool watch, this model is also a pilot and a travel watch and therefore comes with certain dimensions and functionalities which are inherent to its nature. For example, pilot watches were traditionally larger as bigger cases meant wider dials which were easier to read whilst flying fighter jets upside down in the heat of combat. (Or now in the modern comfort and tranquility of the cockpits of jetliners.) And we do have a lot of this here. So, the dimensions: 41mm in diameter, 47mm lug-to-lug, 12mm thick and coming with a 20mm lug width. (Note: the bracelet tapers to 16mm at the clasp.)
With a case and bracelet made of titanium, the whole package weighs 110/120g depending on the number of links you have to remove. That’s at least 30g lighter than the “Goldie Locks” weight of a “proper” diver with a 40mm diameter—around 150g. (I put a lot of quotation marks to gently mock people, like myself sometimes, who use these types of words to categorize a watch as if there were dimensions we could all agree were actually universal. Yeah right.) And 110/120g is indeed light for a 41mm watch with a metal bracelet and as you can imagine, the RZE is quite a light, though imposing, watch to wear. I do enjoy the larger dimensions of the Fortitude GMT-S because they are offset by the lightness of the titanium. Although I’ve become known as the guy who likes small watches, I still enjoy wearing larger tool watches as they make me feel cool. (What? Just saying out loud what everybody thinks within the intimacy of their own thoughts.)
Inside this awesomely sized case we find a Japanese made Miyota 9075 true GMT caliber which beats at 28,800 BPH and comes with roughly 42 hours of power reserve. Although RZE does not regulate their movements, they must do something to them because they always run amazingly better than other Miyota’s I come across. The one in the Fortitude GMT-S I reviewed actually runs at 0 seconds per day which is outstanding. One other thing to note about RZE and their titanium cases and bracelets is that the brand endows them with a hardening coating which brings their scratch resistance to 1200Hv on Vicker’s hardening scale, which is eight times stronger than naked titanium. And we further find scratch-resistance goodness in the flat piece for sapphire crystal which, coupled with 100 meters of water resistance (screw-down crown and case-back,) indeed make the Fortitude GMT-S a tough tool watch.
I almost said “Proper.”
Design
As you might already know, I’ve reviewed most models RZE released since its inception back in 2018. At the beginning, the brand would adapt the design of its first collection, the Resolute, to other types of watches, for example divers and chronographs, whilst improving their original case designs which most always displayed sharp angles. But recently RZE has been exploring different types of dial layouts for its field and travel watches, as can be seen on the Urbanist I reviewed a few weeks ago. So little by little, one release after another, RZE has been honing its design language and I would happily declare that the Fortitude GMT-S has the most elegant and balanced design of any RZE models to this date. (I’m aware that I might have to revisit that statement after the brand’s next release because they know how to keep us on our toes.) We’re indeed looking at an elegant, full-titanium, and tough tool watch which is something I’ve never seen before.
Until recently, titanium watches seemed doomed to look rough. They had a sand-blasted or bead-blasted finish which made them look ultra utilitarian and therefore less appropriate (for some) for more urban environments. But the titanium case on the Fortitude GMT-S has been entirely covered with a fine satin finish which is soft to the touch and on the eye. I believe the case treatment is so good that it gives me the impression to be looking at a watch made out of a material we haven’t yet invented. So I find the case treatment elegant, so is its design: slab-sided flanks, yes, but faceted lugs which turn down towards the wrist and a delicate engine-turn patterned fixed bezel. (As you might know, RZE’s founder Travis Tan is a commercial pilot*, hence the visual reference to his Monday to Friday job.) Also note how nicely the bracelet and ends-links flow within the case.
*Another hint to the world of piloting is the massive 7.7mm screw-down crown complete with a little red band at its bottom which gives a visual clue it hasn’t been screwed down before departure—or before beginning the descent to your favorite dive spot.
And this elegant utilitarianism was transferred onto the dial. And I will already tell you that I absolutely love the dial. First because it’s large, and when I look straight down at it, I also see the engine-turned bezel and I feel I’m looking at a jet turbine. The Fortitude GMT-S is the first watch I’ve come across in four years which makes me feel I’m looking at another actual object (beside a watch) which is quite a fascinating experience to have. But I digress. We find stubby applied, lumed, and fully brushed hour markers (doubled at the twelve) which visually pair perfectly with the half skeletonized hour and minute hands. The latter are also lumed and brushed, and the hour hand is easy to tell apart from the minute hand as it is significantly shorter and wider. And I’m glad RZE opted to give the GMT hand a different shape and color treatment to easily differentiate it from the local hour hand.
But we must dig deeper into the dial’s design to discover all of its little tricks. For example, the framed, trapezoidal-shaped date aperture nestled at the six o’clock where we find white date numerals printed on a black date disc. No, RZE did not paint the date disc gray to match the dial color because it would have made the numerals harder to read. Or note the sunburst effect on the gray dial which, in color, almost perfectly matches the case and bracelet. Or even the brushed applied logo at twelve, the white printed minute hash-marks on a minimalist minute track, and of course the subtle GMT scale printed on the narrow rehaut. All of this endows the dial of the Fortitude GMT-S with great symmetry, elegant sportivity, and coherent functionality.
The Heart of the Matter
At the heart of the matter is the fact that RZE’s Fortitude GMT-S is, according to yours truly, its best release since 2018 and a statement piece. But why a statement piece you may ask? Well, it’s quite simple actually. This watch retails for $699 USD on the titanium bracelet. For that amount of cash, you not only get a watch that is choke-full of of outstanding specifications (hardened titanium case and bracelet, sapphire crystal, insane lume—by the way a mix of BGW9 and C3—, 100 meters of water resistance, outstanding bracelet, and a true GMT Miyota 9075 caliber) but also one which has a singular design, which is rarer than you might want to admit. Even though RZE’s dial and case designs evolve over time, you know you’re looking at an RZE watch after taking a first look at it. That’s the nascent heritage I was referring to at the beginning of this review and which few micro and independent brands have.
Since I love to repeat myself, I must once again emphasize the fact that we cannot put a price on originality in design even though many people are quick to dismiss that we should. For one stupid reason or another, lots of watch nerds disqualify the time it takes for someone to come up with a new design and one which is actually well executed. (Because there are lots of alien-like designs out there which are confusing, hard to read, and plainly silly.) Designing a dial that is balanced, legible, and an instant classic is a very hard thing to do which takes an enormous amount of time to realize. And this should be applauded more often, especially compared to the shortsightedness of those who praise watches just based on their long spec sheet. Yeah, I find this to be utterly stupid.
Conclusion
But here we are, a little over 1,700 words later. GMT watches have always been popular and were even more so during the peak of COVID-19 during which we couldn’t actually travel. Then we, watch nerds, decided that caller-style GMTs were not good enough for us—us who rarely travel in actuality but more often in our dreams—so we asked brands to give us true GMT functionality for a ridiculous low amount of money. So many brands obliged and simply swapped a Seiko NH34 for a Miyota 9075 without altering the watch design. But RZE did no such thing and instead created a new GMT from their Fortitude pilot watch which they released earlier this year. And then they decided to go another step further by redesigning such pilot GMT to give us their best model yet, the Fortitude GMT-S.
Well, I’ve said quite enough about this model already so I invite you to check out the brand’s website to learn more about it.
Thanks for reading.