The original Vario VERSA Dual Time was a bit of a moment. It picked up awards, it was shared throughout the microbrand community, and more importantly, it keeps selling out. Not in a manufactured scarcity kind of way, but because people genuinely wanted one and they disappeared. And it made sense.

A reversible watch at that price point already felt slightly unreal. Two dials, two personalities, proper dual-time functionality, and all wrapped up in something you could buy without requiring months of financial justification.

After that release, Vario started hinting at something a lot of people didn’t expect: a mechanical version. That immediately got my attention.

Because a reversible watch is one thing. A reversible mechanical watch is something else entirely. Add an automatic movement and being able to keep the price under US$500, and

you’re suddenly in territory where you assume compromises have to be made somewhere.

So when Vincent asked if I’d like to review the Versa Automatic Single Time Black Tuxedo, I was thrilled. YES PLEASE!

Specifications

• Case: Reversible 316L stainless steel

• Dimensions: 41.5mm × 28mm

• Thickness: 10.5mm

• Crystal: Flat sapphire crystal with internal anti- reflective coating

• Movement: Miyota 6T28 automatic

• Beat Rate: 28,800 vph

• Power Reserve: 40 hours

• Water Resistance: 5 ATM

• Strap: Italian vegetable-tanned leather with deployant clasp

• Price: US$498

Quartz Dual Time vs Automatic

Before getting into the Black Tuxedo specifically, it’s worth clarifying what actually separates this watch from its predecessor, because comparisons are inevitable. The original VERSA Dual Time Quartz remains one of the most interesting watches Vario has produced.

What made it special wasn’t just the reversible case. It was the fact that each side offered a genuinely different experience. One side was elegant and refined, particularly with the mother-of-pearl dial, while the reverse displayed a practical second time zone. It genuinely felt like having two watches on your wrist.

The new VERSA Automatic Single Time takes a different approach. Rather than focusing on two time zones, it uses the reversible case to celebrate the mechanics themselves. One side gives you the dial. The other gives you the movement.

It’s less about switching between functions and more about switching between design and engineering. Neither approach is better. They’re simply different expressions of the same idea. The quartz version remains the more practical travel companion. The automatic feels more emotional. More tactile. More engaging.

The quartz VERSA lets you experience two different watches. The automatic VERSA lets you experience the watch itself.

Black Tuxedo

The Black Tuxedo version just has attitude. The monochrome dial, the studs around the case, the whole thing feels slightly rock and roll in a way most rectangular watches really don’t. It’s not trying to be a Reverso. It’s not trying to be polite. It feels like it belongs with leather jackets, denim, late nights, and a healthy disregard for dress codes.

It’s also the version that made the most sense to me visually. The white variant is arguably cleaner and more traditional, but the Black Tux, at least for me, feels like the one you actually end up wearing. It has the sort of effortless cool factor that can’t really be manufactured, rather like Johnny Cash singing about shooting a man in Reno and somehow making it sound completely awesome.

The Dial

The more time I spent with the Black Tuxedo, the more I appreciated the dial itself. Photographs don’t really capture the depth particularly well. There are layers to it that reveal themselves as the light changes, creating a sense of dimension that continually draws your eye back.

My favourite detail is easily the hour markers. Rather than traditional applied indices, Vario has used small polished studs that immediately tie into the studded design language of the case. They’re a tiny detail, but they completely change the character of the watch.

Without them, the watch could have drifted too far into traditional dress-watch territory. With them, it feels contemporary. You can clearly see the inspiration behind the Black Tuxedo

name. The monochrome palette, clean lines and formal undertones are all there. But it’s more of a nod than a costume. 

Vario hasn’t tried to literally recreate a tuxedo on the wrist. That’s a difficult balance to strike. Go too far and it becomes a novelty. Go too subtle and the concept disappears entirely. The Black Tuxedo walks that line beautifully. It captures the elegance and confidence of its namesake without slipping into parody, keeping everything firmly in the realm of chic rather than theatrical.

The flat sapphire crystal deserves some credit too. Complete with an internal anti-reflective coating, it keeps reflections under control without sacrificing the crisp character of the dial itself.

The Crown

One detail I haven’t mentioned yet, but quickly came to appreciate, is the crown placement. Rather than sitting at the side of the case, the VERSA positions its crown at 12 o’clock. It’s recessed into the case, but still large enough to be extremely easy to grip and operate.

This might sound like a small thing, but on a watch with an unconventional case design it’s surprisingly important. Setting the time and winding the movement never feels fiddly or awkward. What I particularly like is how little it interferes with the overall aesthetic.

You know it’s there, but it never dominates the design. The rectangular silhouette remains clean and uninterrupted,preserving the elegance of the case while still providing a crown that’s genuinely practical to use.

The crown placement also avoids digging into the wrist, something that can occasionally happen with rectangular watches worn snugly. A detail I greatly appreciate.

On the Wrist vs Off the Wrist

Off the wrist, I’ll be honest, it looks substantial. At 10.5mm, you’re certainly aware of the structure. Rectangular watches don’t always disguise their height particularly well when they’re sitting flat on a desk, and the VERSA doesn’t pretend otherwise.

But on the wrist, it changes completely.

At 41.5mm long and 28mm wide, the proportions work surprisingly well. The reversible case helps break up the visual bulk, while the compact footprint allows it to wear smaller than the numbers suggest. On the wrist, it just works.

That said, if you’re expecting the ultra-thin elegance of a traditional dress watch, this isn’t that. The reversible automatic construction inevitably brings compromises, and height is the most obvious one. Personally, it’s a trade-off I was more than happy to make. 

Dressing the Dress Watch

Despite all of that attitude, it still knows exactly when to dress up.

This is the kind of watch you keep in your collection for occasions that deserve something a little different. As the name suggests, it looks fantastic with a black tuxedo. The proportions, monochrome palette and sharp geometry of the case come together in a way that feels effortlessly elegant.

What surprised me, though, was how versatile it ended up being. I found myself pairing it with a smart-casual beige outfit and matching the beige stitching on the strap to the rest of the look. Somehow it worked just as well.

The watch has a way of elevating whatever it’s paired with. It adds a sense of intention. A sense of style. It simply makes an outfit look chic. The strap deserves some credit here too.

The watch comes fitted with an Italian vegetable-tanned leather strap paired with a beautifully executed deployant clasp that adds a touch of luxury to the wearing experience. It’s a small detail, but one that makes putting the watch on and taking it off feel a little more special.

As someone with a fairly small 13.5cm wrist, I was particularly pleased that Ivan also provided a shorter strap option that fit perfectly. Smaller-wristed collectors are often overlooked, so seeing Vario cater for a wider range of wrist sizes was genuinely appreciated.

The 22mm lug width is also worth mentioning. While it’s not the most common size, Vario offers additional strap options for the VERSA, giving owners plenty of opportunities to experiment with different looks. Knowing there are properly sized options available rather than having to hunt endlessly for aftermarket solutions is a real bonus.

It’s the sort of customer-focused detail that often gets overlooked, but it contributes significantly to the overall ownership experience. 

It’s still a dress watch at heart, but the practical specification sheet broadens its appeal. The sapphire crystal provides reassurance for everyday wear, while the 5 ATM water resistance means you don’t need to baby it quite as much as some rectangular watches.

The Mechanism (and the Real Reason You Keep Flipping It)

The best way I can describe the VERSA is that it shouldn’t be this fun. But it is. The reversible mechanism is properly satisfying. Not in a gimmicky way, but in a “you end up doing it without thinking” way.

You catch yourself flipping it simply because it’s there. It’s probably the closest thing I’ve worn that genuinely earns the “fidget spinner” label without that sounding like a criticism. The interaction becomes part of the ownership experience rather than a distraction.

For mechanical watch enthusiasts, experience matters almost as much as timekeeping these days. The VERSA absolutely delivers on that front.

The Movement

One of the biggest engineering challenges with a watch like this is simply finding a movement that makes the entire concept possible.

Vario chose the Miyota 6T28, a reliable Japanese automatic calibre that runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers approximately 40 hours of power reserve. More importantly, it’s the smallest automatic movement in Miyota’s current catalogue, making it uniquely suited to a reversible watch design where every millimetre matters.

The fact that Vario has managed to package an automatic movement into a reversible case that’s only 10.5mm thick is impressive in itself.

What I like most, though, is the decision they didn’t make. They could have gone with a manual-wind movement. It probably would have made the watch thinner. It almost certainly would have simplified the engineering too. But I’m glad they didn’t.

Because the VERSA isn’t really a watch that sits quietly in the background. It’s an interactive object. You flip it, examine it and inevitably find yourself turning it over for no reason other than the fact that you can.

An automatic movement suits that personality perfectly. Turn the watch over and you’re greeted by the movement itself rather than a second dial. The decorated base plate catches the light with its striped finish while the tungsten rotor swings across it with every movement of the wrist. It gives the reverse side a completely different character from the front.

It’s a genuine watch-geek delight. And while the Miyota may not be a haute horology masterpiece, it’s been finished beautifully for a watch in this price category. The rotor itself is worth mentioning. Tungsten is incredibly dense, allowing greater winding efficiency without taking up additional space. In a compact movement, that’s a genuinely smart choice.

But beyond the technical explanation, it simply looks good. You see it move. You see the watch come alive. A manual-wind movement might have created a slimmer watch.

The automatic movement creates a more enjoyable one. And with the VERSA, that feels like exactly the right decision.

A Watch Worth Taking Away

I actually ended up taking the Black Tuxedo away with me on a mini break. Partly because I needed a watch for the trip. Mostly because it just felt like the right watch to bring.

What surprised me was how quickly it became the watch I kept reaching for. In fact, I delayed writing this review because I wanted to see whether the appeal would outlast the novelty of the mechanism. It did.

If anything, the opposite happened. The reversible case grabs your attention first, but over time it becomes the dial, the versatility and the surprisingly wearable proportions that keep drawing you back.

That’s when I realised there was more to the VERSA than its party trick. Beneath the novelty sits a genuinely thoughtful watch, one that’s been carefully designed rather than merely engineered around a clever mechanism.

I have a feeling this is going to be one of those watches that continues to be pulled from the watch box years from now. The kind of watch you wear for a special occasion, a weekend away, or simply because you feel like putting on something that makes you smile.

For all its playfulness, this feels like an absolute classic from Vario.

Pros & Cons

Pros

• Unique reversible automatic design

• Excellent value at US$498

• Engaging ownership experience

• Distinctive Black Tuxedo aesthetic

• Sapphire crystal and strong everyday specifications

• Reliable Miyota 6T28 automatic movement

Cons

• Thicker than a conventional rectangular dress watch

• Automatic version loses the dual-time functionality of the quartz model

• Studded aesthetic may not appeal to traditionalists

Final Thoughts

This feels like another step forward for Vario. Not in a dramatic new-direction kind of way, but in refinement.

A reversible watch at US$498 already feels unlikely. Add a sapphire crystal, a Japanese automatic movement, a well- executed reversible mechanism and a genuinely distinctive design, and it starts to feel like something that shouldn’t really exist at this price point.

Yet somehow it does.

Vario seems increasingly confident in its ideas and, more importantly, increasingly capable of executing them without losing the originality that made people pay attention in the first place.

The VERSA Automatic Single Time Black Tuxedo isn’t trying to be everything. It isn’t trying to compete with luxury icons on heritage or prestige. It’s simply offering something different.

Something genuinely enjoyable.

And that’s exactly why I suspect people will still be reaching for it long after the novelty should have worn off, because beneath the clever party trick is a genuinely excellent watch.