More and more often, we see micro and independent brands joining horology with advocacy, as we saw recently with the Lōcī PCH Monterey Bay. And it makes sense since watch brands are, more often than not, created by passionate people who can also have other interests beyond that of watches. (It’s nice to have a bit of life, you know?) In most cases thus far, brands want to do something about the environment, the fauna and flora of our planet, by bringing awareness to it by designing watches inspired by specific places, landscapes, or natural formations such as bodies of water, mountains, and deserts. They may or may not donate portions of their profits to nonprofit organizations to support them in putting words to actions by way of targeted projects and marketing campaigns. And micro/indie brand owners also tend to be into nature, hiking, exploration, which further explains why some of them would frame their collections within an advocacy framework. 

So today we’re going to do two new things. First, discovering a new brand, Duzu, based in Western Australia which describes itself as a boutique brand. (Something we will get back to much later on.) Second, we’re going to go knee-deep dissacting its newest collection, the DW-D3, which is the most fauna-inspired timekeeping device we’ve ever looked at on Mainspring. So much so, in fact, that the full model name is the Southern White Whale Australis and now you know which animal inspired the design of this diver. Let me tell you right away that this model is quite something visually—it’s bold, legible, and utterly unique—whilst being spec’ed like any reputable underwater exploration timepiece should be, that is manufacturing and finishing are precise, and that visually it errs lightly on the side of industrialism mixed with Jules Verne-like eccentricism. It commands a surgical wrist presence and is very comfortable to wear. It’s a lot all at once and that’s good. 

Specifications 

The easy part of our analysis of the Duzu DW-D3 is the review of its technical specifications which make it, above all else, a practical tool watch. On account of its sea-inspired nature we do deal with a dive watch through and through, so that you will be able to sport your DW-D3 whilst advocating for the protection of these massive aquatic mammals just as you could submerging yourself in 30 meters of water, sipping an apérol on the French riviera, or driving to work in the middle of a rainstorm. Of course, that means we get good water resistance, 300 meters of it which is more than enough for all of us non-commercial divers, an ultra legible dial endowed with superlative nighttime readability thanks to a mix of a sandwich lume construction, raised lumed markers*, and lumed hands, all showcasing BGW9 which glows blue at night and has a white hue during the day. 

*Personally I find raised markers to be more utilitarian-looking than applied ones, so a plus in my book. 

The purpose-driven specs continue when looking at the dimensions of the DW-D3 which coincide with its depth rating and sandwich lume construction—because both elements tend to thicken a watch—as we do find a case measuring 42mm in diameter, 42mm lug-to-lug, and 13.25mm thick, as well as a 22mm lug width. Actually, I take my previous comment back as 13.25mm is thin for a 300m diver and one endowed with such an intense lume spectacle. But the watch does appear thicker than its dimensions suggest on account of its unique case profile which we will discuss in just a moment. Moreover, the crystal is a domed piece of sapphire with inner anti-reflective coating, the movement is a premium Miyota 9039 (4Hz/42 hours of power reserve,) and the case is made of fully brushed stainless steel. A special note goes to the two massively knurled screw-down crowns which diameter is 6.8mm at their largest point (they are shaped like cones.) 

So far we have a fully spec’ed deep-diving timekeeping device appropriately priced at $549.

Design 

Going back to the raison d’être of the Duzu and what it brings awareness to—Southern White Whales—we find an intriguing design combining classical elements of dive watches and many unique visual creations which are intimately tied to the gigantic mammals. But before we delve into all of this, let’s talk about what makes the DW-D3 a diver indeed. As you probably know, underwater exploration watches must be legible and functional, two attributes the Duzu is endowed with, for it has contrasting elements which help with telling the time at-a-glance—a large handset and equally large hour markers—and that it can help the wearer (diver) keep track of elapsed time thanks to a count-up scale located on the inner rotating bezel. What is unique here is how Duzu designed the insert: on the upper section there are thick hash-marks indicating the hours, and on the sloped portion, a fully graduated scale where the 5-minute increments are highlighted with numerals. 

This makes it possible, technically speaking, to track a second time-zone and to precisely keep track of the time elapsing in front of our eyes. Moreover, placing the fully graduated scale on the chamfer of the insert also makes it possible to put the minute hand as close to it as possible, making it really easy to track time to the minute. And did you notice the bespoke design of the larger 12 hour marker on the bezel in the shape of a baleen’s tail? We can find the same design on the 2 o’clock crown which actuates the inner rotating bezel. And so we begin our exploration of the visual theme of the DW-D3 which brings us to the hour and minute hands shaped so to mimic a whale’s jawbone, here painted in black and complemented by a matte sandy finish. And the circular lumed hour markers designed to represent the blowholes of the giant mammals and which double as superb supports for an extreme lume application. 

Moving onto the case and looking at the two crowns again which were decorated to look like the two eyes of the baleen, and the case flanks to look like the belly of the majestic animal which creates, thus so, a really nice rounded profile which aids in making the DW-D3 very comfortable to wear, despite the fact that the two crowns stick out quite a bit. (And the latter two remind me of the antennas of a snail, but well!) Furthermore, the impressive aforementioned 42mm lug-to-lug—impressive indeed in relation to the 42mm diameter—means the case has virtually no lugs although it does, which barely stick out and angle downward dramatically like a cliff, and designed this way to look like the whales’ flippers. The case-back, as you could have easily imagined, is engraved and depicts a Southern White Whale which is framed by text reiterating the theme of this watch and, in a way, bringing it all home. 

The Heart of the Matter

The Duzu DW-D3 is two things: a professional-grade diver and an advocacy piece. We looked at all the specifications this watch comes with and there is no shred of doubt that it is built to fulfill its function with high marks, something that is also theoretically guaranteed by the high-level of manufacturing it is endowed with. (And in particular the crowns which are indeed made to be easy to use with gloves deep in the water.) I’ve come across many divers in the past four years—since I started writing about watches—and the Duzu is up there in terms of specs and quality. It would make many German tool watches question their own raison-d’être and legitimacy, and if tomorrow I were to be called upon to live in an underwater laboratory for six months, I would bring the DW-D3 along. Indeed, this watch is solid and ultra legible, and cleverly designed as we saw above. 

The DW-D3 is also, therefore, an advocacy piece made by a boutique brand, something I promised to come back to. I have and you have an idea of what we mean when we say “boutique brand” but I nevertheless Googled it in order to find a basic definition we could hopefully all agree on: this article (which talks about clothes) defines a boutique brand as a small, specialized store that offers a curated selection of clothing and accessories. So in our context of horology a boutique brand would be a small company that offers a curated collection of watches, that is organized using professional or expert knowledge. (Another definition for you!) Alas, I do not know the background of the brand’s founder but I can tell you that visually it is designed by someone who knows a lot—has a passion for—Southern White Whales as well as being highly versed into spec’ing and the manufacturing of proper tool watches. 

Therefore, I would indeed say that Duzu is a boutique brand on account of the intrinsic qualities of the watch and of the niche world it was designed after. 

Conclusion 

At the end of the day, if you’re simply looking for a good diver, then look no further than the Duzu DW-D3. It has the right specs and visual attributes of superlative legibility to fit the bill and thus at an appropriate price of $530 USD. If you’re looking for a unique-looking watch and/or tool watch, then look no further than the Duzu DW-D3 for its design is singular and functional, a winning combo in my personal book. If you’re into sea-themed timekeeping devices and want to support a brand which wants to bring awareness to the endangerment of the Southern White Whales, then look no further than the Duzu DW-D3. You see, you got many good reasons to pull the trigger on this watch. But if you don’t like blue but prefer white or black, then take a look at the full range of this collection. 

Thanks for reading.